Sunday, 18 September 2011

Laos and Thailand

Right so; the very last few hours of Vietnam were spent on what I know “affectionately” call the Epic Bus Journey! As I said in my last blog we were on a 28 hour trip to get to Vang Vieng after we voted not to stay in Vientiane. And so on our last morning in Vietnam we were picked up bright and early by a bus that was bringing us to meet our sleeper bus. This bus drove us an hour out of Hue, we stopped just before a toll booth and met our bus...it was a LOT smaller than our other sleeper buses. So we all squeezed on and got our places. I ended up getting myself a seat down in the cave...which turned out to be a bad decision on my part. Unlike the other sleeper buses where in the cave the seats could be adjusted so that I could be sitting up these seats were stuck in an almost completely horizontal position...and even at that I had about 3 inches between my head and the ceiling above me!! So after, oh about 5 minutes there, I knew that I had just made the journey a lot more uncomfortable for myself than it had to be!! Anyway the bus got going...and drove us the exact same way back in to Hue, which was slightly frustrating, so the best thing to do was just plug myself in and listen to some music to distract myself! When we got to the Vietnam/Los border we managed to delay the bus by about 2 or 3 hours! On all these buses we are not the only people on it and I did feel kinda sorry for all the locals who just sailed through the border. There were 20 of us crossing the border and it wasn’t so easy for us! Firstly when the bus pulled up, all 40 or 50 people on it got off and queued up at the exit point window...where there was only one poor dude working. After a 15 minute wait they opened a couple more windows...but this was also where the locals tried to start skipping us! We all got slightly frustrated at this and bunched up and refused to let anyone push past us! There was words had with one or two people and then they realised that we were not to be messed with...that where we come from a queue means wait your turn, not figure out how many people you can get past in one try!! It took quite awhile for us all to get stamped out...and then we had to walk through a very hot no man’s land to the Laos border. The bus had been delayed somewhere along the way, so when we got to the Laos border everyone was on their lunch break! So we were waiting around for about half an hour or a little bit more till...yup you guessed it, ONE guy turned up to process 20 of us! At this point the guys who worked on the bus were coming over to us and gesturing wildly at us to ring the number on the window, to which we replied we had already been told they were on lunch and had to wait! When the guy did turn up he actually managed to process us all quickly enough...then we had to go to the next window and get stamped into the country and the thankfully we were in Laos!! When we got back on the bus no one looked too happy but we have reached the stage that we don’t really care if we are a nuisance to anyone!! And so I spent the rest of the journey reading, watching a movie or two, trying to sleep...and before I knew it the day part of the journey was over! It’s at this point it’s all supposed to get easier as my body should be naturally tired, twig the dark sky and sleep...but it seems it has some resistance to sleeping on sleeper buses..And so I tossed and turned (as much as my 2 foot of space would allow me to!!)  and managed to get 15 minutes of sleep every now and then!! Despite our delay at the border we arrived at Vientiane at 4.30 in the morning (so we were all very relieved that we made the decision not to stay there and to have to wait around for our rooms to be ready at midday!!). So it was time to pile the bags off the bus, into tuk tuks to go and wait for the mini buses that were taking us to Vang Vieng. The mini buses were compact...especially with all our bags but I found it easier to sleep on it and managed to get a couple of hours of sleep in on the way to our next destination. When we arrived in Vang Vieng we sorted out our rooms with military precision and within minutes reception was clear and we were all ready to shower and sleep. Of course once a bed is available my body has a little giggle and says “screw you” and suddenly decides to be wide awake! So I faffed around for a bit on my laptop and the eventually sleep came! The rest of the first day in Vang Vieng was spent sleeping, getting some food and having a drink with the whole group before going to bed early in anticipation of tubing the next day!!
So tubing what can I say only that it was an experience...and another best moment of the trip! We all got up early, went into the Irish bar next door to the hotel and ordered a proper Irish (or English depending on which country we were all from!!) breakfast! It was yum...with proper beans and all!! Then we all headed up town to go get ourselves some tubes (and a life vest for me!!) and a tuk tuk to the starting point. When we got there we got a little boat across the river to the first bar (Q Bar funnily enough!!) and got ourselves a drink. We found a can of spray paint and a star template and suddenly a lot of us were graffitied! When everyone was finished their drinks we decided to brave it and give the whole tubing thing a go, so we very gingerly lowered ourselves into our tubes and got someone to kick us off...then the current caught us and we were off!! For those of you who don’t know, tubing works by having an inflated inner tube from a tyre and floating downstream stopping off at different bars. Of course being in the middle of a river in only a tube makes it slightly difficult to just stop off at a particular bar...so the guys who work in the bars throw ropes with filled water bottles out into the middle of the river at people floating by, you grab a rope and they pull you in! My first attempt at this ended up with my flipping out of my tube, holding onto the rope and getting pulled in with my tube floating further on! When we all made it into the second bar we got another drink and found a mud pit so starting writing on each other and just generally flinging mud every now and then! After awhile there it was time to move on. Because I had lost my tube I had to walk to the next bar, with the hope that there would be more people at the next bar so I could rob someone else’s tube!! The next bar was great fun with a rope swing out into the river, a mud volleyball court and mud tug-of-war!! Everyone had great fun on the rope swing (I had fun watching everyone do it!!) and the volleyball was absolutely hilarious! When we were finished there we moved along and I was back in the water after “acquiring” (thanks for teaching me how to use that word in the McHugh way Dad!!!) myself a new tube! The next bar had a big inflatable landing pad, so everyone got into the swing of things straight away and starting jumping. The first few attempts didn’t work so then the guys who worked there showed us that the best way to do it was for one person to jump and position themselves at the end nearest the centre of the river and for two people to then jump at the other end and catapult the first person up into the air!! It was amusing to watch but a couple of times it didn’t work with the person who was sent flying ending up catapulting backwards towards the other people and them all ending up on a big tangle in the river!! Our final bar of the day was by far the most fun. It was on the opposite side of the river to all the other ones so we all paddled as fast as we could to get ourselves to the right side and grab the bottles. There were also people from the bar out in the river grabbing people and pushing them towards the bar. I missed the bottle so Rosie started shouting “Save that girl” and jumping around and pointing at me! So this little Laos dude came swimming out to me quicker than I have ever seen anyone swim, grabbed my ring and towed me into the shore! This whole episode had me in fits of laughter and I will forever have a mental picture of Rosie hopping around and waving her arms!! This bar had great music (there is a video which may make it on Facebook at some stage) which perfectly illustrates the madness that is tubing! It was also at this bar that we all covered ourselves in headbands and arms bands that said I Love Laos (if you have seen the pictures on Facebook you will know what I am talking about!!). It was getting late in the day at this stage and we had been warned not to be in the river in the dark so we all made to head home. Our group got separated at this point into little groups and although there was a bit sign at the start saying “Start Tubing Here” there was not big sign that said “Get the F*** Out of the River Now”!! or something to that affect! after awhile of floating down river and wondering where the heck we were going to get out we say a bank of stones and paddled for that and managed to get out of the river. It was at this point that I managed to get my only injury of the day! There was a couple of Spaniards floating along with me and Joe and they got out at the same point, when we got out of the water the wind took one of their tubes and I tried to catch up but ended up slipping on some mud and went down on my knee, arse and elbow!! All I can say is the life jacket saved me on more ways than one as it saved me getting an awful bruise on my back! As it turned out we picked the right place to get out as we just had to walk a couple of minutes to drop our tubes back and then we headed back home. Some of the guys were already in the Irish bar so we went in to let them know we were still alive then went to shower and change and then went back in for some food! We all had great plans to head out that night but tiredness and early drinking syndrome kicked in and after the food and a few games of pool it was time to rest my weary little head!!
The next day there was a few sore heads so some of us decided to take it easy and go to the Blue Lagoon. It was a tuk tuk ride away...on some of the dodgiest roads I have ever been on. To say the potholes were craters doesn’t even begin to cover it! When we got to the Lagoon there was hardly anyone else there so we grabbed ourselves a little hut and settled in for some relaxing with a nice cold coke. The Lagoon itself was really pretty and it had ropes to swing off into the lagoon. It was more of a greeny colour than blue, mostly due to the monsoon season...but I was just glad it wasn’t brown like the river the previous day! After a couple of hours there a convoy of jeeps pulled up with a load of day trippers so we decided to take leave and head back home. It was into Gary’s (Irish bar) again for some more amazing food and then the rest of the day was spent relaxing before packing to move on the following day.
The next leg of the journey took us to Luang Prabang. We had two mini buses to bring us up through the mountains....of course going through the mountains, pretty as they are, also means we had the obstacle of landslides...one of which was rather substantial! We were ticking along making nice time winding up and down on the sides of the mountains when we hit traffic jam...yes a traffic jam in the middle of the mountains. Our driver then informed us that there had been a landslide a couple of days previous and they were almost finished clearing it but not quite...so we would have a 3-5 hour wait! Of curiosity got the best of me and some of the others so we decided to walk up and have a look. This seemed like a great idea at first but then as we got closer to it, it got a lot muckier, with that red clay type muck which is just not good when it’s wet...and of course I was wearing flip flops! So by the time I reached the landslide I was practically sticking to the ground because of the thickness of the mud and my legs looked like I had been given a really bad spray tan!! The landslide was huge! We could see how much of the mountain had given way and it must have covered a couple of hundred feet of the road. Luckily for us the landslide itself had happened two days previous so they didn’t have much left to clear. Once I was satisfied with surveying the damage (because I’m such an expert on landslides of course!!!) I headed back up to the mini buses thanking my lucky stars that I had some baby wipes to clean off before I got back into the van. However it turned out I didn’t need the baby wipes as some ingenious person had fashioned a tap using the top of a bottle and finding a small spring that was coming down the side of the mountain, and they had put a bucket under it to gather some water. And so at the side of a random mountain in Laos I washed in a bucket!!! Flip flop and all I stuck my leg into the bucket and washed all the muck off and then did the exact same thing with my other leg! It was quite the experience but at least I was muck free for the most part!! To avoid another bucket wash I got back on the minivan and decided to stay put before I destroyed myself again! And much to our surprise about half an hour after that, the traffic started to move!! So in the end we were only waiting about for an hour or so before we were able to pass through the destruction. The traffic moved very gingerly across the path as, as good a job as the workers did, there was still a thick layer of mud and a sheer cliff edge to the right of us so the drivers were all taking it very easy! Once we had cleared it though the driver went back to his usual, well don’t want to use the word manic as that sounds a tad extreme, but slightly “unique” style of driving!! We did meet another landslide that day but luckily again the worst of it cleared so it was only a couple of minutes wait before we got through that one and then there was the odd mini landslide we came across. It took us about 8 hours in the end to make the journey which was slightly longer than expected but not as long as we had expected at the first landslide!!
The next day we were all up at 5 in the morning...no that’s not a typo you read it right!! Luang Prabang is famous for the morning offerings procession that the Buddhist Monks take part in every morning. The monks only have one meal a day so to supplement their diet at 6 every morning the monks leave the monasteries with their offerings bowl and Buddhists line the streets with offerings of food, usually a hand full of sticky rice and in return for this the monks bless the people. So at 5am we all, well I won’t say hopped out of bed, but removed ourselves from bed and went down to the main street to watch the procession. It was amazing to see all the monks in a line that seemed to go on forever. I was also amazed to see the range of ages of the monks. There were a couple of dudes who were well in their 70s and then some kids who must have only been about 7 or 8! We watched the whole thing for about half an hour and then headed back to bed! Rhona and Rachel though spotted something they didn’t expect to see while they were walking back. When the monks turned off the main street they all relaxed as the formality of the occasion was over. Rhona and Rach spotted two teenager monks having a bit of laugh as one of them chucked his bucket of rice over his mates head! Not something I would have expected to have heard about but it sounded like fun and good to know they do get to have some fun and it’s not all seriousness all the time!! The following day we got to experience some local culture in Luang Prabang. Every year at the end of the rainy season Luang Prabang holds a boat race and the whole town goes into festival mode. So the day of the race we headed out to go see what all the excitement was about! It felt a bit like Paddy’s Day!! I could hardly walk down the street with the amount of people walking around. And EVERYONE had umbrellas with them. Asians don’t like to get tanned or have dark skin so most of them walk around on a daily basis with an umbrella...now everyone knows that this can be a problem at home with hair getting caught in the spokes every now and then. Now imagine being in Asia where everyone is little...and the problem doesn’t so much involve trying to make sure you don’t end up with a bald patch as trying to ensure you come home with sight out of both eyes at the end of the day!!! The other thing I noticed as we were walking down to the river was the sound of shuffling; they just do not lift their feet at all!!! Even above the sound of people talking and music coming from stalls and bars and restaurants I could still hear the shuffling! And of course once I noticed it I couldn’t ignore it!! When we got down to the river we had to try find ourselves somewhere to watch the racing from and luckily we found a little riverside cafe that had one empty table in it with one stool...so about 8 or 9 of us piled in and suddenly stools and chairs appeared out of thin air so we all got seated and waited for the excitement to start. I’m afraid if you’re curious about who won the race that is not information I can give you, partly because I gave up watching after couple of hours in, and partly because I just didn’t bloody understand it!! When we arrived we could see there was about 10 different boats (each with a spectacular 45-50 people in each boat!!). We thought the race would start, they would all row to bejaysus and then we would have a winner. Oh no no no no no, not in Laos! In Laos they had two boats race against each other...so I presumed it was heats and the winner would go on and the loser say goodbye. Oh no no no no no, not in Laos!!! In Laos it’s not just the first person across the line; the boats are also give points for technique, how the team looks and a million other things that I can’t remember!! Some of the races were not so close with one or two of the teams speeding ahead of their opponents, while other races were really even and right beside each other the whole way up the river. I have to say, even though I didn’t understand what the heck was going on I still enjoyed watching it. Watching roughly 50 people in perfect synchronisation rowing a boat at the speed they were rowing at was truly admirable, not something I could do and they obviously practice a lot to get so in synch. However as admirable as it was, after watching for a couple of hours I got slightly bored so decided to go and explore a little and left the riverside to walk back up through all the stalls....cue shuffling and unsafe umbrella usage! It was a good day though and nice to see something completely random and see how into it the locals were; one of the teams must have had a fan club because on the opposite side of the river to where we were and a couple of hundred meters down we could hear them screaming from the moment the boat started until it crossed the finish line!
The following day we left lovely Laos to head back into Thailand. We had a sleeper bus that night which was a nightmare! Gone were the recliner bed thingies and instead we were on a normal size coach with normal chairs...and if this wasn’t uncomfortable enough we then saw the people who worked on the bus bring plastic garden chairs on and stuff them in the very narrow isle down the middle of the bus! It was crazy there was people everywhere and right beside my seat I had a woman get on with 3 kids, a 12 year old, a toddler of about 3 and a baby only a couple of months old. I couldn’t believe that they were going to travel on a bus overnight, but they seemed to be used to it as they slept the whole way while I didn’t get a wink of sleep! Whenever the bus stopped for a pee break or a food stop getting off was a nightmare, having to climb over chairs and wake sleeping people and children! Thankfully the nightmare finally ended and when we got to the bus station we were transferred from there into mini vans that were going to bring us to the border. The border we crossed was the most unique border so far as when we stamped out of Laos we then got in BOATS which took us across a river (the Mekong I think) and when we got out of the boat on the other side we were in Thailand! It was pretty cool really. Once we were all allowed back into Thailand we were into tuk tuks to bring us to a hotel to wait for mini buses that were going to bring us to Chiang Mai.
Chiang Mai is a fairly busy place and very popular on the tourist route. UKtoOz don’t usually go there but because of the China disruption our new route brought us to it. I spent the first day or two just relaxing and managed to fit the cinema in (Final Destination!). One evening some of the guys went to traditional Muay Thai Boxing but I wasn’t that interested in it....so went to the night market instead!! I’ve said it before and I’m sure I’ll say it again but if I was on a different type of trip and not living out on one bag with limited space I would have spent a small fortune!! They had so many amazing things there and I wanted so much of it. When we first arrived at the market it looked like quite a small one with stalls lining the pathways, but as we walked it seemed to just explode! We reached a large intersection and every road we looked down had stalls for as far as we could see, and then the basement of all the office buildings around us also had stalls in them that seemed to go on forever! Needless to say we didn’t even get to explore a small portion of the mall...I think if I had gone there everything for a week I wouldn’t have seen even half of it!! The main activity I did in Chiang Mai though was go zip lining in the jungle which was absolutely amazing! When we got there we were all harnessed up and got our helmets (complete with dodgy blue dinner lady hair nets!!) and then we were giving a safety talk. There was a little to remember but mostly it was “don’t touch the zip line as it will chop of your fingers”, so it was fairly easy to remember that one! And then we started on our way! The course was amazing with around 20 platforms as high as 40 feet up a tree with zip wires between the trees. The guys with us would clip us on and then we just had to let go and we’d zip through the air to the next tree where another guy would catch us and stop us from ending up like a pancake against the tree truck! We also abseiled a couple of times, with the last one being a 40 foot drop which was quite the experience! The whole day was brilliant and we managed to finish up just before the rain started so it was good timing! No one sustained any huge injuries although there were a couple of dodgy landings and the guy who was catching us almost got flattened a time or two and got the odd kick in the shin! It was definitely worth doing it though...and not every day you get to say you swung through the Thai jungle!
The following day we were leaving Chiang Mai on a night bus so the day was spent going to the cinema (Fright Night!) and then wandering around Chiang Mai a little bit...honestly didn’t find anything too interesting but I will admit I probably didn’t look as hard a s I could of if I had been properly interested! The night bus was....ok!!! I actually managed to sleep for a couple of hours...though I did almost kill an American! We got on the bus at 7pm, I was sitting down at the back of the bus one row from the back...and in the back row there was an American guy. He found a friend somewhere else on the back row and until 1am he did not stop talking! The bus driver turned off all the lights everyone was asleep or trying to sleep or reading or doing a quiet activity and this gombeen was talking at the top of his voice. I experimented and put my IPod up to its highest...and I could still hear the fecker!! Some of the other guys were up at the front of the bus and when I told them about him they all said they thought it was a radio playing because it was nonstop! I wouldn’t have minded it so much if he was actually saying something interesting but he was talking complete and utter crap. He was talking to an Eastern European girl and ended up insulting her after saying something about the war, he was complaining that when he was in Bangkok Khosan Road was full or Irish and English people and he didn’t find a single American, and then I also heard all about how the Americans are brilliant and although the rest of the world wasn’t happy with the war on Iraq he was absolutely sure that there was WMD somewhere in the country. But his gem of the night had to be when he started talking about his “mystery illness”. He told this poor girl that there was something wrong with him but the doctors didn’t know what. He kept getting pains in his head, and the doctors sent him for all kinds of tests and couldn’t figure it out, and when he worked out he was always short of breath. My theory was that he was short of breath cause he probably didn’t shut up talking while he was on the treadmill and the pain in his head was him having to listen to himself and never being able to bloody escape it!!! The bus stopped of r a break at 1am and I hoped beyond hope that when we all got back on he would be quiet....alas it was not to be and he talked for the first half hour and then low and behold there was sweet sweet silence and so there was sleep for me!!
Our destination after the night bus was Kanchanaburi, famous for the Bridge over the River Kwai. When we arrived we were greeted with little wooden huts out over a tributary of the river. The rooms were lovely, and I was slightly amused to see that the water from my shower went straight through the plughole and down into the river! The following day myself and Joe went on an organised day trip to see what Kanchanaburi had to offer. We were only there for one full day so we had to see as much as we could in that day...and we saw a lot! We were collected at 8am and our first stop was the Erawan Waterfalls. The waterfall was beautiful and on 7 different levels. So instead of there just being one big long waterfall there was little ones in a forest at the side of the mountain. We walked up to the 4th level and each different stage was gorgeous. The sun was beaming that day and it made the surroundings amazing. I tried to paddle my feet at one of the levels but there was lots of little fish in it and they nibbled on my feet when I put them on which freaked me out so I pulled them straight back out...needless to say I now know I will never be able to have one of those fish pedicures!!! When we were finished at the waterfalls we were brought to the Hellfire Pass. The Hellfire Pass is possibly the most famous section of the Thailand-Burma Railway that was built by Prisoners of War and Asian labourers during World War 2. The railway was 415km long and was built in less than a year and the Hellfire Pass itself was built after 12 weeks of round the clock work by POWs and Asian labourers. The Hellfire Pass is attributed to the nightmarish scene that was played out there every night during the most frantic stage of building. The prisoners were extremely emaciated and still working round the clock. At night the pass was lit us with flaming torches so they could see what they were doing and people observed that it looked like a scene from hell. I can only imagine that for the prisoners themselves, it felt like hell as they were working under extreme conditions in searing heat and all the work was done by hand. So in order to blast out the rock through the mountains to allow the train tracks to be laid they had to manually drive a drill into the rock. They did this by one prisoner holding the drill bit and another hitting it with a hammer. When the bit was in far enough they would remove it (as long as it didn’t get stuck which often happened) and then drop dynamite down the whole. One the dynamite went off and the rock cracked and crumbled, they would then have to manually clear the rock away by putting the smaller bits of rock in steel carts that were on a small track to be brought to the bottom of the mountain and then bigger rocks were rolled over the side of the mountain. We learned all this information in the museum and then walked down to the pass itself and it suddenly became blatantly clear what the prisoners had gone through. The rock walls on either side of where the track used to lie must have been about 50 or 60 feet high and 1 good couple of hundred of metres long. All along the rock we could see marks left from where the drill holes and blast cracks were and once or twice we spotted drill bits that had got lodged in the rock and were still there. It was amazing to see it and to understand how hard it all must have been. When we were finished at the Hellfire Pass we were brought to the Krasae Cave and the last remaining wooden bridge on the railway line (all the rest have been replaced with stronger structures if they are still in use). The cave was just one massive chamber and is now a Buddhist Shrine but during the war and the building of the track it was used as a hospital, which standing in it is kind of hard to comprehend. The wooden bridge winds around the side of the mountain and the guide told us that it is surveyed at least once a year to check for any weak struts and anything that doesn’t pass the test is replaced, but replaced with wood. I unfortunately couldn’t find out how much of the bridge is still original but I still liked that they were keeping it as wood. After walking on the track for a bit we then waited at the station for the train to come. We were on the train for about half an hour and then it was back onto our mini bus to go to the last stop on our trip, the River Kwai Bridge. I have a vague memory of watching the movie Bridge over the River Kwai when I was a kid but I can’t remember the full story. If memory serves me correctly it was about POWs plotting to destroy the bridge they were being forced to build. This makes sense as we were told that the POWs often sabotaged the building works of the railway as they knew it was being used to transport arms and supplies to aid in the war. They had to be very careful that the sabotage was not obvious as if they had been caught they would have been punished so they used different methods like using weak wood pieces or not reporting dodgy bolts and things like that. I think in the movie they just planned to bomb it. Again I could be totally wrong with this...I’m sure someone with a better recollection will correct me (and I would greatly appreciate it too!!). The bridge itself is slightly underwhelming for all the fuss that is made about it! But it was still cool to see it and to know some of the history behind it and the railway in general.
The next day we were moving on again and heading to Ko Samui. We first had to get back to Bangkok to meet our night bus and this is where things got slightly messy! Our bus driver was not happy with taking 10 of us in his van because his piece of paper said he had only to take 9; there are 20 of us in the group so 10 in each van made sense to everyone except him! After a few phone calls and him seeing our refusal to move out of his van, he eventually started driving. We could tell he was in rather a bad mood with the whole situation and instead of dropping us to the travel office in Bangkok he got us to Khosan Road and told us to get out. So we did...however the other mini bus driver did what he was supposed to do and so we had a situation where none of us knew where we were supposed to be or where to find any of the others! Some of us went scouting to see if we could spot the other van but in the end it was the wonders of Facebook and wireless internet that allowed us to make contact with Rachel and figure out where we were supposed to be! It was all a bit exciting really and made our short stop in Bangkok slightly more amusing than it would have been otherwise! The night bus was rather uneventful (no annoying Americans thankfully!!) and when we arrived at our stop we had a couple of hours wait for the next bus that was going to bring us to the ferry port. Then it was another bit of a wait till the ferry was due to leave and after a little less than 2 hours on the ferry we docked at Ko Samui. The last leg of the journey was tuk tuks to bring us to the accommodation where we all pretty much grabbed something small to eat and then crashed out in our little beach huts! When I woke up I went for a little walk to explore...and ended up walking nearly 3km and finding a massive Tesco store!! Now at home I would not be in the slightest bit excited about Tesco, however here it is a different kettleofish as Tesco meant the possibility of being able to get (ahem) underwear in non-Asian sizes and bras with actual sizes!! After a little exploration (and a purchased or two) I wandered the 3km back...to find everyone getting ready to go out for dinner so I dropped my bags and walked half the way back again to head into town for something to eat! After dinner I headed home after wiping myself out with all the walking!!
The following day was great fun! 9 of us decided to head out on mopeds for the day and to explore Ko Samui. In the morning I had to make the decision to get one on my own or to ride with someone. After having a go on Kev and Brian’s bikes I decided to share with Rachel so once we were all sorted and everyone was ready we headed off. We didn’t have a map so didn’t really know where we were going...but it’s an island so we couldn’t get too lost really!! We headed up north first to find the Big Buddha...he wasn’t hard to find he was absolutely massive! While we were there we sponsored a tile for their new temple so when the temple is built next year there is a roof tile going on it with a drawing of our truck on it and 9 of our signatures! While we were there we stopped for a cold drink in a local cafe which turned out to be owned by an English couple. We got talking to them and the lady very kindly offered to show us to some local temples. So she hopped on her bike and we followed her down to a complex that had about 6 or 7 different temples in it. After that we headed back down towards the south of the island, but on the coast road this time and so we were able to take in the fabulous beaches and the amazing blue water. We then decided that instead of stopping at Lamai, where we were staying, on our way back down we would drive though and try to find the waterfall. At this point Brian very kindly let me have a go on his bike on my own and I had loads of fun on it...although typically as soon as I decided to try it on my own the road turned into potholed, flooded dirt tracks! We made it back onto the main road and started going up the mountain. We stopped at a little waterfall along the way which was more of a water trickle and then I got back on the bike with Rachel to head further up the mountain. Unfortunately we didn’t find the waterfall and instead ended up in the hell that is a durian plantation! Durian is a fruit that they are crazy about over here but they smell like a mixture of puke and shit so landing in a forest full of them was not something I would like to ever repeat again!! We made our way back down to the main road then and relaxed for the rest of the evening. The following day was Rugby World Cup Day and also Bui’s birthday celebrations. So we started off the day with a KFC lunch and then headed back to the beach huts to watch the rugby. Unfortunately due to the US Open being delayed they had changed around the TV schedule so the restaurant in the beach huts couldn’t actually show the match. So it was a quick dash back into the town to go to the Aussie bar. We made it back down just in time for the end of the opening ceremony and the start of the match. Once the match was over it was time to get ourselves ready for the UKtoOz race night! All my years of working in Floods paid off when I became bookie for the night, and in true UKtoOz style the bets were placed in drinks! Needless to say I set a few rules...mainly no each way betting as I was sure after the first couple of races I wouldn’t be able to calculate, even with the aid of a calculator, what a half, never mind what a quarter of anything was!! We had a great night! Our “horses” were windup toy chickens. We had a list of names that kept with the chicken them such as “Poultry in Motion”, “Rooster Red Rum”, Secret Recipe”, “Atilla the Hen”, “An Oeuf is and Ouef” and “Quick Chick”.  We had a “race course” that was about a foot long as the chickens tended to change course or die half way but in every race we landed ourselves a winner. We even managed a couple of photo finishes and at one stage a dead heat!! You’d think there was actual money involved on the night with the amount of cheering that was going on! And to truly make the event authentic, everyone had to wear a hat. We had a great collection, some people collected flowers from the garden and made hats, we had a top hat that was about 3 foot high, there were fan hats, big gaudy coloured hats and a couple of hats that could pass as normal ones that would be acceptable to wear in normal everyday life! I ended up with a purple theme without knowing it as I had a purple hat, purple top and when I took out my fan it was point out to me that that too was purple! So to make myself truly heinous due to the clash of shades of purple I went and put on a pair of purple trousers and my purple scarf. Overall I would say I managed to end up with about 10 different shades of purple on me in one outfit...not something I would normally strive to achieve but it gave us all a laugh and managed to prove that yes, purple IS my favourite colour!!! The night was a great success and everyone went to bed with at least one win under their belts...and a number of drinks in their bellies!
The following morning was a very slow, tender start to the morning for me on account of the night before! I do remember ending up in a ridiculous situation in the middle of the night where I had to get up to go to the loo. In our huts there were big mosquito nets over the beds so it wasn’t an easy task to get in and out of bed in a full state of sobriety. So you can imagine that after a few drinks it was a lot more difficult and when I tried to get out I kind of managed to bounce myself into the net forgetting it was there, and got slightly tangled up in it...think fish caught in a net and you will get an idea of my situation! I eventually managed to free myself and also managed to get back into the bed with too much difficulty where I returned to a glorious slumber! I managed to make it down the town for one of the rugby matches the next day but other than that I took it very easy! The following day though was the Irish match and I was so nervous! We went to an Irish bar to watch it and there was a good crowd in. The only disappointment was dinner! Kev ordered the beef Sunday Roast and when that came out we all suddenly decided we were hungry! A couple of others ordered only to be told there was no beef left...so they had to make do with the roast chicken instead. That too looked and smelt amazing. I wasn’t hungry so decided to wait a bit to order...and when I did I was told that they had just sold the last dinner!! So no Sunday Roast for me! Luckily I had perused the menu and found chicken balls, chips and curry sauce...so I got those and felt like I was eating a Hanks (local Chinese take away in Clondalkin for those of you who are unfortunate enough not to have experienced a Hanks!!!). The Irish match was great to watch but my nerves were shot to pieces watching it and seeing them mess up!! And that marked our last day in Ko Samui and our last day in Thailand!
The couple of weeks in Laos and Thailand absolutely flew in. I was amazed by Laos. When we drove in I didn’t expect it to be so mountainous after how flat Vietnam was. The tubing was an amazing experience, both because it was something completely different and also because it was a breathtaking setting to be in in the first place. It was also great to see more of Thailand after falling in love with Bangkok. Chiang Mai was a nice place to relax and take some time out and Ko Samui gave us a great chill out place but we managed to fit in some adventure at the same time with our scooter day. And I loved seeing Kanchanaburi and learning some of the history of the famous railway and the town itself. Once again some amazing countries and places to visit and more memories to have!! Next stop is Malaysia, country number 18 out of the 21...scary to be so close to the end but also very exciting!!!

Sunday, 28 August 2011

Vietnam

The next stage of our journey brought us to Vietnam, a country I was really looking forward to seeing. The border crossing was very easy and we sailed through in about an hour or so. The one thing I do remember from the border that brought me a bit of amusement was due to the fact that we were on the public bus the whole way through the border. When this happens the people who work on the bus help all the passengers through the border by gathering the passports and all that kinda thing. At this border when we were stamped out of Cambodia we were getting back on the bus to drive through the short no man’s land to the Vietnam side of the border. As we got back on the bus a guy who worked on the bus was collecting all the passports. This guy was dressed in ¾ length trousers and had a big massive straw sombrero type hat on his head. Every single person who got on the bus did that thing where you could literally see their thought process as they looked at the guy still holding onto their passport, they look at him with an odd look and then glance at the pile of passports he already has and then reluctantly hand over the passport...then run onto the bus and ask their friends or the bus in general if they had also handed over their passports to the dodgy looking dude at the door!! I went through this whole process myself but once I was on the bus and looking out the window I found it quite funny to watch everyone else do the exact same thing!!! Anyway once we were through the border they started playing Avatar on the TV screen which I was quite excited about as I hadn’t seen it since I went to see it in the cinema...but unfortunately I fell asleep!! When I woke up I looked around and discovered we were in Ho Chi Minh City!! Straight away it reminded me of Seoul in Korea and I got a good feeling about it straight away. Once the bus made it through the traffic and the endless barrage of mopeds we headed to our hotel. Once the rooms were sorted it was time to go and try find some food. Luckily enough there was a restaurant and bar 2 doors up from the hotel and due to hunger and tiredness we decided to do the easy thing and go there. This place we found was called Godmothers and became our home outside of the hotel for the few nights we were in HCMC. The first night we were there the food was gorgeous and with our meal we got a drink...this led to a second drink...which led to free shots from the bar...which led to ANOTHER drink...and you can imagine that this vicious circle continued until we were 5 free shots in...which got stronger every time!! The staff also brought us out a complimentary fruit plate which was just yummy! Then we copped onto the Connect 4 boards on the bar so we all started playing that. At this stage more of our group had joined the 7 of us who had headed out for dinner and we ended up with quite a fun night on our hands!! I’d like to say we stayed out until the wee hours of the morning, however having headed out at about 6.30 for food we were all home and tucked up in bed by about 10.30!!!
We obviously still had some sense about us when we got home from the bar though as we all managed to book a day trip for the following morning!! The day trip was to the Mekong Delta and involved an hour bus ride first before getting on the boat. I was slightly green on the bus journey but made it without incident...much to the relief of Rosie who was sitting beside me!!! The day trip was really good, we got in a boat which brought us out past Dragon Island and Turtle Island and we kept making our way towards Unicorn Island. When we got here we got off the boat and went to see bee hives and taste honey tea. After that there was a walk through the island which was really nice. We walked to a canal through the island and it was so picturesque. Most people when they picture Vietnam think of the palm tree lined canals with the little boats and tiny Vietnamese women in them with the cone hats on their head...at least I know that’s a picture I had in my head of Vietnam...and this tiny little canal in the middle of the island made that stereotypical picture come to life! It was amazing; there were loads of little boats with 2 people in each of them waiting to take us all down the canal to see more of the island. I really enjoyed that part of it...even if it did involve another minute boat!! After that we went back on the big boat to go to the next island where we saw how they made coconut candy. I’m not a huge fan of coconut but tried it anyway and was pleasantly surprised when it didn’t taste of coconut at all!! It proved to be quite tasty and slightly addictive!!! Then it was back on the boat to go for lunch which was a rather uninspired affair with stodgy rice and suspicious looking chicken!! After that we were back on the main river for a look around before going back to an island for a tropical fruit tasting and some traditional Vietnamese music...which was...em interesting!!! The instruments one dude was playing were fascinating to look at but the sound from one or two of them were slightly piercing so I can’t say that I found it particularly relaxing!!! Then it was back on the boat to head back to the mainland. There was another hour bus journey to endure and then we went to Godmothers for some food (avoiding alcohol completely except for the shot they gave us!!) before going to bed for an early night!
The following day was explore HCMC day!! Once we were all up and ready we headed out for a little tour of the city. We started off down at the Notre Dame Cathedral, which isn’t a patch on the one in Paris but was still a nice building. Just across from that was the French style GPO. I really liked this building and when I went in I felt like I had walked into the Dublin GPO!!! It had all the wooden counters and steel bars just like Dublin, and I also noticed that it even had the little wooden phone booths that are in Dublin...although granted there was an ATM in one and computer terminals in some of them!! We went to grab a bit of lunch then before heading down to look at the Reunification Palace. Myself, Rosie and Kev decided to go in while some of the others went on down to the War Remnants Museum. The guide book said that the Palace had been untouched since the 70s and was like a time warp....I was not disappointed! As soon as we walked in we noticed the clashing colours and rooms decorated in the exact same shade of awful yellow or green from the carpet and curtains to the chair covers and wall paper! It was slight overload in some rooms!! My favourite room though is the room I have affectionately dubbed the Austin Powers room as it would not be out of place in one of the movies. It came complete with circular leather sycadelic coloured couch, ridiculous lamps and light shade and tacky wooden personal bar in the corner! And I’ll just remind you here that this was the PRESIDENTIAL palace...where the president actually lived and met with other royal and political people!!!  The palace comes complete with a movie room, heliport and on the 4th floor a dance hall and casino. A war bunker was also built and completed in 1966. The bomb shelter was built by President Ngo Dinh Diem after the palace was bombed by his own troops in an attempt to kill him. While the new palace was ordered to be built in 1962 by the president he never got to see the competed article in 1966 as he was killed in 1963 by his own troops. The bunker itself was very impressive with a number of tunnels and a large concentration of different telecommunication rooms. All these are also preserved perfectly since the 70s so we again got to see the old style phones and the big communication machines that they used throughout the war. The palace has been known by a number of different names over the years from Independence Palace in 1975 when communist tanks crashed through the gates, and Norodorm Palace, when it was used by the French Governor-general of Cochinchina in 1868. When we finished exploring the time warp we headed down to the War Remnants Museum. This was an experience not unlike the S-21 prison in Cambodia. It consisted mostly of photographs from the war which showed the affects of chemical warfare used by the US such as Naplam. When Naplam was dropped it would literally wipe out everything in its path. Whole forests and jungle areas were wiped out within minutes. Crops and livestock were destroyed and it affects the people in a horrendous way. The Naplam would burn through the skin and not only would it disfigure the person; they were then contaminated by it and now pass the contamination onto their children. Even today children are being born with disabilities and disfigurements as a result of the chemical warfare. Some of the pictures were very hard to look at and it was heart breaking to see that it still affects people today, but the very last room we came to was a display of how people who have been affected by it are still leading a normal life. People who have been born in the last 20 years or so are now working as teachers, there was one guy who was born with no arms who taught himself how to be a carpenter with his feet and he now carves the most exquisite beds and furniture. Another person again without feet, is an artist and there is a girl who has her own classroom in a local school where she goes to teach the children in the school how to read. Although there was a lot of information to take in at the museum and a lot of it was quite disturbing it was nice to finish on a happy story as such and to know that although people are still being affected by it they are not letting it ruin their lives or letting it stop them doing what they want to do. The museum also had an outdoor display about the tiger cages that prisoners were kept in. These cages were about the size of a coffin and rather than being wooden they were made of barbed wire. Up to 7 prisoners used to be in one cage and left there for hours or even days at a time. We also saw the guillotine used by the French which was lasted used in about 1968.
 That evening we all went out for dinner and by pure coincidence found a place that was showing a friendly between England and Wales (rugby!). That night there was also a friendly between Scotland and Ireland so all 4 teams were represented so there was a bit of craic going on....and it didn’t help that Ireland lost to bloody Scotland...Rhona was a very happy lady for the rest of the night! When the matches were over we all went back to...yes you guessed it, Godmothers!!! And another great night followed, which was rounded off by a great catch up with Triona on Skype...with a good internet connection!!! Next day was an extremely chilled day for everyone with hangovers being an issue for some people! But that evening some of us mustered up the energy to head to the Sheraton Hotel for cocktails at dusk overlooking the city from the 23rd floor. It was really nice and the city looked amazing at night with all the lights. We knew straight away we were in a posh place as even though it was 2 for 1 cocktails (which was just as well as the cocktails cost about 6euro...we’re used to paying maybe about 2 or 3 euro these days for cocktails!!!) they only brought out one cocktail to us all. We all sat looking a little confused but as we were in a posh place decided not to act like penny pinching backpackers and we didn’t say anything. Then as Rosie finished up her cocktail the waiter whipped over with her second one ready to go! It was then we realised that the place was so fancy that rather than giving you two cocktails at once and have one get warm or sitting there too long they just watched the drink and when it looked like you were ready for the next one it appeared by magic!!! Like I said...it was a posh place...not something we have been used to for these last few months!!! When the sun had set and we got some lovely pictures we then headed to a local Vietnamese restaurant. On the walk there we passed by the Opera House which was a gorgeous building all lit up. In the restaurant everybody else’s food was lovely, but I seemed to pick the dud of the menu and ended up with what can only be described as a rubber fish cake! We all did get quite excited though about the fact that there was brown rice on the menu and after the first initial “Oh, its 3,000 more than white rice”, we copped on and reminded ourselves that this was the equivalent of 10cent and we could probably afford to splash out!!! When we were all finished it was time to go back to the hotel and pack up and get ready to leave Ho Chi Minh City. I really liked it there and if HCMC is a sign of what else was to come in Vietnam we were all guaranteed to have a great 2 weeks!!
The following morning we were off to Mui Ne, a beach resort on the east of Vietnam. I was standing at the bus stop and some of the other guys started to walk up...and then I thought my eyes played a trick as I saw Greg following up the crowd!! I ran up to give him a hug and say welcome back and nearly got myself killed in the process as I stopped to hug him in the entrance to the bus station. Greg’s mum Wendy was with him. They had arrived in HCMC the previous evening and had surprised everyone with their arrival! Wendy had always planned to come out for the SEA leg of the journey but when we lost the truck and Greg it was all up in the air but luckily it all worked out in the end and they are with us for a few weeks. We then all hopped onto the bus and got a surprise when we discovered that it was a sleeper bus. A sleeper bus is...well you can probably imagine...it’s a bus you get if you’re making a long journey. It’s not like a normal coach bus; it has two levels of what I can only describe as bunk beds! They are somewhat comfortable...but only if you are a little person less than about 5’10!! Any bigger than that and it’s a case of not being able to straighten the legs at all!!! So we all piled in, learned quickly how to climb onto the top level and get out of the way of everyone else ASAP and we were on the way! When we arrived in Mui Ne I fell in love with it straight away. We were staying in a resort that had its only little private beach out the back...it was about 20 steps out my bedroom door...as Mam and Dad can both testify to as when I was talking to them on Skype I took the laptop for a little walk outside to show them the little bit of paradise that I had found!!!! Once we were all settled into our rooms me and Joe went for a walk up the beach to explore a little bit. When we turned around to go back home we saw that a massive storm was moving in over the bay. I can’t really describe it except to say that there was a perfectly circular cloud coming in which was really dark close to the land and went different shades of grey as it went more towards the sky. The best way to get an idea of what the heck I am talking about is to have a look at the pictures on Facebook! When we got back to the resort, everyone else was out on the beach looking at the storm too. The wind really started to pick up and sand was being blown against our legs...which kinda hurt a little! Then it started to drizzle at which stage we all took our cue to leave and went into the restaurant to watch the rest of the storm unfold. The rain poured down and it was amazing to watch the cloud move over the bay and then for everything to go back to normal like nothing had happened! Day 2 in Mui Ne was spent doing absolutely nothing! I went to the beach, went for a little walk in the town and didn’t find anything too interesting, then went back to the beach, then out for dinner and then to bed!!! So that day really did feel like a holiday!! On day 3 in Mui Ne some of us went for a trip to the sand dunes. The first ones we went to were the white sand dunes where we could get sheets on plastic to slide down the dunes. A couple of the lads got them and we all went up to watch them. We had great fun up there with everyone giving it a go but by far the star of the day was Bui! I will try my best to describe his amazing dive but I have a video that I will email to people so you can all truly appreciate his acrobatics!!! When we first started up there some of the local kids were pushing the lads off till they got the hang of it. Then once they got a bit of confidence they started pushing themselves off by putting one knee on the board and using their other leg to push off with. Bui went to give this a go but when he pushed off he managed to propel himself in such a way that he planted his face into the sand and his body flipped over in spectacular style!!It wasn’t so much a back flip as a neck flip! We all saw it and of course our first reaction was to laugh, then we checked if he was ok and then we laughed again!! He just lay on the ground for a few seconds before coming back up to us and showing us a face full of sand!! We left soon after this as we were pretty sure no one could top Bui’s moment. That evening after dinner I went to sit out on the beach for awhile. As I sat watching the waves I was mesmerised with how the sea would go perfectly calm and then the waves would just appear up out of nowhere. As I watched them I started noticing that every now and then the white tip of the wave would be a luminous green colour. At first I thought it was just my eyes going funny as I had been watching the waves for so long but it kept on happening. Rosie came out then and I tried to point it out to her but it was gone before I could explain  what I was seeing but she saw my face and said straight away, “yeah the waves light up”!!. So I was pleased to learn that I wasn’t going mental. Apparently it is phosphorus or something along those lines in the water that causes it to happen. I don’t really know what it was and to be totally honest I don’t really care, I was just glad to have seen something like that and found it absolutely spellbinding!
Next morning we had to leave our little paradise to head to Nha Trang. We were on a sleeper bus again and it was slightly awkward as there seemed to be very little storage space on the bus for our bags for some reason. So all the bags got piled on the front of the bus and then shoved down the aisles once we were all in our bunks. As the journey progressed we discovered the reason for the lack of space....the storage of the bus had been stuffed full of deliveries that we were dropping off along the way. There were boxes and packages appearing left right and centre...and then we arrived at a little garage...and they proceeded to pull 7 bike chassis out of the bus! So the reason for no storage then became blatantly clear! We arrived in Nha Trang once all our deliveries were made and sorted out the hotel rooms...and got a lovely surprise when we discovered that the hotel had a lift so we didn’t have to trek up a few flights of stairs with our bags on our backs (little things people remember!!!).  That evening we got Nha Trang off to a similar start to HCMC with a quiet dinner affair turning into something of a boisterous night out...and once again we loved it! Luckily there was no boat trip scheduled for the following day so after a relaxing brunch myself and Joe went off to explore Nha Trang...and explore we did...we “explored” so much we managed to walk ourselves off the map that the hotel had provided us with and after walking for 2 hours looking for a left turn we eventually gave up and started looking out for a taxi. It turned out we had walked to the edge of town and had basically walked around the ring road of the town.
Our third day in Nha Trang was by far my favourite as it was the day we arranged to go snorkelling. I’ve never been snorkelling before and was slightly nervous about the whole thing. I knew I would have a life jacket on so I wasn’t worried about the drowning...I was worried I wouldn’t get the hang of breathing under water. At the first snorkelling stop the water was so clear and looked gorgeous. I flippered up and popped on my mask and life jacket and stood at the back of the boat....and just looked!!! After a few minutes I plucked up the courage and got myself into the water. The first thing I did was stick my head in the water and consciously told myself to breath. After the first few attempts I started to get the hang of it so I kicked off and went in the direction our guide pointed us in....and I fell in love with the sea! I have seen plenty of movies and documentaries where people go diving and snorkelling but I had my breath taken away when I reached the coral and it was exactly like I had seen on the TV. The water was so clear that I could see everything and the colours of the fish were absolutely amazing. I just didn’t want to get out; I wanted to keep looking for more and more fish!! After a half hour or so we moved on from the first stop and went to our second stop. This one was my favourite out of the 3 stops as it was only our group there and I found a cluster of little electric blue and deep purple fish. When I spotted those ones I just floated above them and watched them for ages. I also saw a huge blue starfish at this stop and I found Nemo too!!! When we got back on the boat after our 45 minutes there the seating area of the boat had been transformed into a buffet area!! They had set up so much food including a fish dish which was yummy, chicken, noodles, squid, rice, morning glory (type of veg!) and spring rolls! It was all delicious and between the 20 of us we devoured it! It was then time to head to our third snorkel stop which was different to the other two as it wasn’t in a cove or small bay but pretty much out in the open water in a current. The guide came with us on this one and we all followed him while he pointed out different fish and dived down to point them out to us. The third stop was my least favourite for the simple reason that I got stung by a stupid jellyfish!! At the first stop there had been lots of little jellyfish that was like a pin prick if it got us. At this stop a felt something across my stomach and then it started to sting so a used my hand to swipe it away and felt tentacle thingys around my fingers and a stronger sting on my stomach. So a splashed around and flapped my hand a bit to free myself from the tentacles, once I did that a looked around but actually couldn’t see a jellyfish anywhere near me!! I started to think I had imagined it but then as a started to swim off again I could feel the sting on my stomach and fingers so a had to stop for a few seconds to try squeeze the pain out of myself!!! When a got back onto the boat after our exploration (and spotting a blow fish!!) I had a huge sting mark on my stomach and all on my fingers...so at least I know I didn’t imagine it, and thankfully the pain had stopped by then. We also had a tropical fruit party waiting for us when we got back on the boat so we all tucked into dragon fruit, pineapple, bananas and a couple of other tasty refreshing fruits! So my first experience of snorkelling got me a jellyfish sting but that won’t put me off. I absolutely loved it!! After being so nervous at the first stop, at the second one I was the first person at the back of the boat kitted out and ready to jump in!!! I loved seeing all the fish and even something like seeing the coral swaying in the current I found mesmerising! I can’t wait to get to Oz and to be able to do it again!!
The next day we were leaving Nha Trang, however our bus wasn’t till 6 in the evening so a group of us headed off to the mud baths. We all really enjoyed it. When we got there we had to shower first in hot mineral showers and then a dude turned on a big massive tap in a big massive bath and mud started spilling into it! So we all jumped in (about 10 of us!!) and had a mud bath. We stayed in there for about 15 minutes and then it was time to get out shower again and then get into another big massive baths, this time with crystal clear hot mineral water. This was after going through the hydroshower that spurted water at us at high speed and pressure...and those of the group who had some sunburn from the snorkelling the day before did not enjoy this part of it!!! After chilling out in the second bath tub in the sun (this whole experience was outdoors!!) we headed to the hot mineral swimming pool. We were expecting it to be warmish and all just jumped in...Which proved to be quite a shock for our sunburn when it started stinging the bejaysus out of us for the first few seconds after the water hit us!! When we were all swimming pooled out we went and got ourselves ready to head back to the hotel and to wait for our bus.
Our journey that night was also on a night bus and what an experience it was! Once again it was a sleeper but except this time we were actually expected to get a proper sleep on it as it was an overnight bus! When we first got on the bus driver immediately didn’t like me and some of the others in the group as there was a cave type thing down at the back of the bus where there were 5 seats in a row with a low roof and another 5 places above that. It was hot and dark in there so when the dude signalled for me to go into it I just looked at him and said no way. After a few minutes of continuing gesturing on his part and head shaking on my part I just picked a seat, sat in it and looked at him. He either didn’t mind or had lost the will to argue with me without being able to use words so he left me alone....and starting gesturing to someone else to go into the cave!! Eventually we were all seated and the cave was full and we got on the road. We discovered on this trip that the Vietnamese have no concept of personal space!! I had picked one of the upper bunks which proved to be a God send as even though all the seats were taken on the bus the driver kept stopping to pick people up and they put little mattresses down on the aisles for these people to lie on. Now the aisles were probably about 2 foot wide and of you were on one of the bottom bunks one of these extra people would have been literally lying right beside you! There was an Irish girl who got the unfortunate seat of the bottom bunk in the middle aisle, so when one dude popped down on one side of her she just turned on her side to try and ignore the fact that he was so close...however not long after there was another stop and another dude was plonked down on the other side of her. I felt really sorry for her and if that wasn’t bad enough another guy got on the bus and lay down beside the first dude so she had two squashed in on one side of her and another one on the other side. I could tell she wasn’t very happy with the situation and I can’t honestly say I wouldn’t have been either! Of course the other problem that stemmed from this bus cramming was the fact that getting to the toilet on the bus was somewhat of an obstacle course. When it gets dark the driver turns off all the lights, there are people and bags lying everywhere, the driving is somewhat erratic and people are trying their best to keep their balance and not fall on top of someone as they venture for a pee!! I didn’t sleep very well on the bus and the one time I finally started to drift off properly the driver decided was the perfect time for a break and he stopped at a roadside restaurant!! I managed to doze every now and then but it was not what I would call a comfortable night’s sleep!! One thing I do remember from this particular journey was that my IPod fell off my bunk down onto the dude who was asleep in the aisle. When I stuck my head over the side to get it back I was very surprised to see that he hadn’t woken up when it dropped on his shoulder. The people in the bunks on the bottom were also asleep which left me with a bit of a dilemma as to how I was going to get my IPod back!! In the end I had to climb off my bunk and balance myself on the bars/armrests that stop people from rolling out of the bottom bunks. So I had one foot on a balancing beam on either side of this tiny Vietnamese dude and had to bend over without falling on any of the 3 people within my landing zone to get the IPod back! If this guy had of woken up at the moment he would have woken up to a white girl straddling him reaching down towards his face!! How I didn’t burst out laughing at the ridiculousness of the situation and wake up the whole but I will never know!!! Anyway in the end I got my IPod back without waking up anyone and I was able to go back to my happy little world of music!! Although I didn’t get to sleep much on the bus I did get to track the full moon the whole way across the sky that night and got to see an amazing sunrise too!
When we arrived in Hoi An at 7.30am we got to the hotel to discover that not all the rooms were ready. So some very lucky people got to go to bed straight away...I unfortunately was not one of those lucky people so had to dump my bag in someone else’s room and find something to entertain myself with for a few hours while I waited for people to check out. In the end I decided to walk down to the beach to have a look as I had heard it was about a twenty minute walk, so I figured a walk would probably do me good after sitting and lying down for the whole night on a stuffy bus! Well a 30 minute walk didn’t even get me close to it! I walked for about an hour or so (no watch on so I don’t actually know!!) and still didn’t make it to the beach. I had also had a flip flop casualty in Nha Trang so I was wearing my dolly shoes with no socks on which started to really hurt my feet. After a few attempts at saying “Ok, I’ll go to this next corner and if I can’t see the beach I’ll turn back”, I eventually did give up and turn back. Of course at this stage my poor little toesies were in agony and they only way I could actually walk was to take the shoes off and do it barefoot!! When I got to the hotel I discovered that I had been gone for nearly 3 hours!! But in those 3 hours someone had checked out so there was a bed awaiting me!! I ran to the room, had a shower and hopped into bed for a few hours of uninterrupted kip!!! The walk to the beach was probably about as exciting as day 1 in Hoi An got as after my nap I just pottered around the hotel and then got take away from a restaurant that evening and ate it in bed watching a movie!!!
The next day was Triona’s birthday!!!! So I got for breakfast and then hung around for a couple of hours to give her a call on Skype. Unfortunately the internet started to be really crap and it was all very jumpy so I didn’t get to talk to her for long. I still laughed though at the few seconds of silence after I greeted her at 7 her time in the morning with “Happy Birthday”. I could picture the thought process she was going through until she finally replied “Orla....is that you??” It was priceless!! After my sisterly duty was done we headed into town for a walk and some lunch. It was on this walk that I had a startling revelation! We got to a sculpture tribute type thing to a guy who had helped get Hoi An its World Heritage Status. Part of the display was a large globe with Vietnam highlighted on it. So I had a look and started to walk around the globe to find little old Ireland...and was stunned to see that I had pretty much walked around it 180 degrees before I found the little island I call home! I had a flood of different thoughts ranging from “holy crap, I’m far away”, to “how did I get this far in only 4 months” and “how did I get this far without flying!!” It was great to see just how far we had actually come but also really, I’m not sure sad is the word but I can’t think of the right word, to realise how far away from home I was!!! Anyway after that little revelation we continued to wander around what is a really quaint village. Hoi An went virtually untouched throughout the war and everything is as it has always been. The old houses are amazing and although most of them are shops now they are still in the old style houses with the original architecture and decoration. The following day I had gone on a bit of a tourist walk by myself. I went to a couple of different places including an old family church, called the Tran Family Chapel which was built in 1802. It was built for Tran Tu, a member of the family who became ambassador to China. I also went to the ceramics museum (the best thing about it was seeing the old house it was in and seeing the exhibition about the restoration of the house itself), a couple of temples and a traditional family home. The house I went to is called Tan Ly House and is lived in by the 7th generation of the family and everything is exactly the same as it. The house was beautiful and had been designed with such a lot of detailed. There was poetry on the columns but rather than being written it was inlayed mother of pearl, and the writing was designed to be birds in different states of flight rather than just normal writing. I know all that sounds rather confusing but trust me when I saw it was beautiful! The house is quite close to the river bank and so in the rainy season when the flood waters rise the family use ropes and pulleys to haul all the furniture from the ground floor to the upper levels of the house. The main thing I remember about the house was that they mark on a section of wall how far the flood waters rise every year and in 2007 and 2009 the waters reached about 8 feet. I couldn’t believe it when I saw it and was impressed to see how well the house had survived over the years considering the weather it has to contend with!
Next morning I made a second attempt to find my way to the beach...only this time I didn’t walk and hired an electric bike! The bike was great fun one I got the hang of it and a good idea as it was quite hot to be cycling in. We stopped on the way up the road for some lunch and then made our way down to the beach where we got some sun loungers and chilled out. On the way up the road my bike had started to lose a bit of power so I was hoping that the rest while I was on the beach would allow me to make it home before it gave up completely. The beach itself was lovely, golden sands and blue seas for as far as I could see. The weather was slightly overcast but it was still warm and the water was a lovely temperature. We had great fun with Brian and Greg cracking some horrendously bad jokes that we couldn’t help but laugh at...and of course we all people watched and commented on people’s choice of swimwear and hair styles! Then it was time to head back to the hotel to meet Rosie and Dee for some shopping, so back on my bike I got...and after a few minutes the bike properly died. And so I was forced to manually cycle home the 5k from the beach....felt like when I first started spinning all over again...except this time I was sweating as it was about 35 degrees out!! When I got back to the hotel I went straight to the shop where we had hired the bikes from, I explained what happened and she looked at the bike and said “Oh, the wire came out of the battery”. She found it very amusing and started laughing while I was not so amused!! After a short discussion they agreed to refund me some money and then I dived in for a very quick shower and change and us girls went off on our shopping expedition! Both the girls were looking for jewellery; however I was just looking for a place that would clean my bracelet. After 4 months of overlanding it had got rather grubby and wasn’t as shiny as it used to be. So I left it in at a jewellers and she told me they would see what they could do but couldn’t promise anything. After that and when the girls had bought their shiny things we went to meet Greg and Wendy for a drink and some cake! I had a mini passion fruit pavlova (Mam, add it to the recipe book...absolutely amazing!!!) and then we headed back to the hotel to get ready for a group dinner that evening. We went back to the place where we had gotten cake in the afternoon and I had a gorgeous tuna lasagne (Mam...recipe book!!!) and then it was back to the hotel to pack and get ready to move on once again!
We had an early start the next morning but the joy of public transport meant that the bus was about an hour late so we were all just milling around reception getting rather bored. Eventually our bus arrived and we were pleasantly surprised to see that it was actually a normal bus and not a sleeper bus! The bus journey itself was relatively uneventful however when we arrived in Hue the bus driver got a bit stroppy when Rachel told him that he was supposed to take us to the hostel rather than just drop us at the bus stop. He got off the bus and stood on the other side of the road but Rach told us all to stay on the bus and to make sure no one started to take our bags off. After a number of phone calls and a few irate gestures and some shouting from the bus driver he eventually dropped us to where he was supposed to. We were staying in hostels in Hue and some of us were in a 14 bed dorm. We hadn’t had a proper hostel stay since Istanbul so it was a bit of fun to all be in the same dorm...even though we only had one shower and toilet between us all!! Once we were all settled in myself, Rosie and Wendy went for a bit of a wander and walked down towards the Citadel to see where it was and how much in it was. Hue, like Hoi An, is a Unesco World Heritage Site and tourists go there, according to the Lonely Planet, to see something of old, pre-communist Vietnam. We then stopped along the river bank for a drink and a chat before heading back to the hostel to get ready for Kev’s birthday night out! I have to say I was very proud of how well we managed to coordinate the showers and a very orderly queuing system was formed. Of course all this organisation meant that we were ready a lot earlier than any of us had planned so the party started a bit earlier! Poor Kev was on a cycle of beer shot, beer shot, before we even left the hostel as the hostel has a spinning board with lots of flavoured vodkas that ranged from butterscotch or apple, to one called arse (vodka with fish sauce!!). We then left the hostel to head to the DMZ bar where we got free Long Island Ice Teas and graffitied the wall a bit in honour of Kev’s birthday. We then eventually made it to the restaurant we had booked and were pleasantly surprised as the guy in the hostel told us it had a menu of Vietnamese street food. When we got there though it was white table cloths and 3 couples having nice romantic meals...needless to say they seemed to speed up their consumption pace and left possibly a bit sooner than they had planned...there were 16 of us after all!! We had a really nice meal, the food was gorgeous and we all cleaned our plates, with some of the group tasting other dishes on the table and ordering it in the middle of the meal as the food was so tasty! When we had finished up dinner we then headed off to Why Not Bar. We had been to a Why Not Bar in Nha Trang and had a great time so we decided to test out if this one was just as much fun!! When we had been in the DMZ bar earlier in the night we had bumped into some overlanders from another company called Odyssey that we had met way back in Goreme in Turkey. So on the way back past the bar we told them where we were headed and they followed us down a while later. One of the guys, Ben, was Irish and me and Dee had a great time chatting to him without getting the piss taken out of our accents! Ben had obviously been subjected to similar slagging as someone said the word film (pronounced fil-im by us Irish people apparently!!) and he was delighted to hear someone else say it!! After a few drinks and a few games of pool there Kev decided he wanted to go to Karaoke...and so at 1.30 in the morning Kev, Joe, Dee, Ben, Bui and I walked around Hue to a karaoke bar. In all honestly it was great fun! I’ve never really done karaoke before and when we first got there it looked like we were walking into someone’s house but when we got up to the room it was all kitted out with a big comfy sofa, space to dance around and a couple of microphones. The singing got off to a great start with Kev getting 100% for his rendition of La Bamba! I gave Bippity Boppity Boo (from Cinderella!!) a go...god knows why a song like that was in a karaoke book but by far the best song of the night was Bui’s selection of Livin’ On A Prayer where we all sung at the tops of our voices. We also did a group choice of YMCA...to which there is a video, however after several attempts by different people to get it online it’s just taking forever so you might just have to miss out on the wonder that is the UKtoOz music video!! The night was rounded off with group collaboration once again of Lean on Me...And then the people kicked us out of their house and we toddled off home!! It was a night of epic proportions and Kev had one heck of a birthday night out!!
The next day myself and Joe went off to explore the Citadel.  Construction on the Citadel began in 1804. The outer wall is 2 metres thick and 10km long, it also has a huge moat that is 30 metres across and about 4 metres deep (the moat is now overgrown with fantastic water lilies). At the centre of the wall facing the river is a 37 metre high flag pole...I couldn’t quite comprehend how high it was till I was standing right beside it. Although I could see it from pretty much anywhere in the city, as I walked towards the Citadel on the first day, I just thought I was really close to it because the flag was so big, but in fact I was still rather far away!! The flag pole has had an eventful life, built in 1809, extended in 1813, knocked down by a typhoon in 1904 and rebuilt in 1915...to be destroyed again in 1947. The actual one that exists today was erected in 1949. The Citadel was bombed heavily during the French and American wars and only 20 of its 148 original buildings have survived. We had only planned on being there for a short while but it was a really nice place and we sat down and took our time enjoying it. We found a little cafe to sit down with a cold drink overlooking the water lily covered moat and just soak up the atmosphere for a couple of ours. The Citadel was beautiful. A lot of the buildings were destroyed during the war but some of them have been restored so it was lovely to see the old style buildings. We then headed back to the hostel for a meeting with Rachel where she told us that the next leg of our trip over the border into Laos was going to be a scheduled 24 hour bus journey! We then had the choice of adding a further 4 hours onto that to get us to Vang Vieng or else we could make an overnight stop in Vientiane, however there was a possibility that our rooms wouldn’t be available at 7.30 in the morning, our schedules arrival time. After being the victim of such a fate in Hoi An I voted to add on the extra 4 hours and just go the whole hog and the majority won out so we have an epic 28 hour journey ahead of us!
The next day I got up and pottered around the town a little and then a group of us were going on a dragon boat trip on the river. It was really nice to relax and take in some of the scenery without having to walk around in the heat. We went to the main pagoda in Hue, called Thien Mu Pagoda. It is at the top of a hill but luckily it wasn’t too big a hill to get up to. It was quite impressive, a 21 metres high octagonal building, 8 stories high. This was also where we saw the car that a Buddhist monk drove to Vientiane in the 70s and burned himself alive in protest to how Buddhists were being treated because of their beliefs. When we were finished at the pagoda we headed back to our boat and back to the hostel to pack up. That evening then I went for a lovely meal where I got Cordon Bleu, veg and mashed potatoes!! One of the best meals I had had in a long time!! I’m really starting to miss being able to cook for myself and having normal food like chicken and potatoes...suppose it’s the Irishness coming out of me!!
And so that is pretty much the end of Vietnam, aside from the bus journey which I will tell you all about in the next blog as I think this one is just about long enough already!! I have to say I have absolutely LOVED Vietnam! I have seen many different sides to it, from the busy city of Ho Chi Minh, to beach resorts, the protected Hoi An and the great fun and nights out in Hue, everything has been just amazing. The only rude people I have encountered here were the bus drivers...but then again I guess I would be kinda moody too if I had to drive hours through the night with a bus full of sleeping people! Vietnam is definitely on my list of return places...and for those of you who want a new wardrobe my advice is to come to Vietnam for a holiday with an empty suitcase, go straight to Hoi An and get everything you could possibly need tailor made for you in am matter of hours. Kev got 4 full suits made for him in 24 hours!! They make everything from bikinis to ball gowns and everything is exquisite...and reasonably priced. So in a few years time when I head back to get myself a fab wardrobe made I will let you all know and we can all go on the biggest shopping spree holiday that you can possibly imagine!!!

Thursday, 25 August 2011

Bangkok and Cambodia

So our flight from Kathmandu to Bangkok was fairly uneventful...though I was very surprised as to how restless I got on a 3 hour flight...tell me to spend a 12 hour day on a truck and it’s no problem, 3 hours on a plane and I was restless as hell!!! When we arrived in Bangkok we were due to have our first experience of public transport...and an experience it was as when we got there we discovered that all the buses had been cancelled for some reason!! So the first experience was to experience the unpredictability of public transport!! So plan B was to find taxis for us all and once that was sorted we drove into Bangkok. It was the evening time as we were driving in and was lovely to see the lights of the city as we drove in. None of us did much that evening except to venture out for some food...which was an ordeal in itself considering how long we waited for food, though we quickly learned that this was just the way it was done in Thailand and food in restaurants is never rushed...which is fine in some situations but not when a large group of hungry travellers rock up looking for some food before bedtime!!
My first day in Bangkok was action packed in the sight-seeing sense! We were up early to get some breakfast and head off to the Grand Palace...however as soon as we went to head off the heavens opened!! So we (quite literally) rain checked for a couple of hours to see if it would improve and went to a local cafe for a drink and to use the internet. We literally set up shop in Temple 75 for the few days; there was always at least 2 or 3 UktoOzers there at any given time!! Luckily the rain did die off and myself, Rosie and Kev headed off to find ourselves the Grand Palace. It was only a 15 minute walk from the hostel but due to some very odd traffic junctions instead of just crossing the one road we needed to we ended up having to cross about 8 going the whole way around the junction! When we did get up to the Palace myself and Rosie put our scarves over our shoulders to cover up and went to go get tickets....only to get shouted at by a man with a megaphone that we had to borrow clothes from the cloakroom to cover our shoulders. We said we had scarves on but this wasn’t acceptable so we had to rethink. To get a loan of clothes from the cloakroom would have been a 40 minute wait but the Palace closed an hour later which wouldn’t have left us with a lot of time to actually see it. We then saw someone walking out with a scarf over their shoulders so we said we’d give it a try, went and bought the tickets and joined another queue...to get shouted at again about our shoulders! The most annoying thing about all this was that other women were wearing sheer shirts so their shoulders were actually visible so we don’t really know why they were having such a fit about our scarves which properly covered us! So we dashed back to the cloakroom...only for the dude with his megaphone to announce they had run out of clothes and we would all have to wait until clothes came back. At this point we were both getting slightly pissed off about the whole situation, but we remembered that there was loads of clothes stalls outside the Palace (obviously preying on tourists needing clothes!!) selling t-shirts and the like. So we went outside the gates and went looking for something cheap and slightly ok looking...but all we found were horrendous luminous coloured Hawaiian shirts!! We looked at each other and without saying a word walked off only for the little lady to shout after us “For lend, for lend”. So it turned out all the stalls outside rented clothes to tourists and were there for when the cloakroom ran out. So having a lend of the horrendous shirt rather than buying it was acceptable in both our minds so Rosie got a lovely luminous green and I a rather fetching fuchsia pink!! Once we were all kitted out we popped back inside and finally made it into the Palace and found Kev (I didn’t forget in that whole story that he was with us...just being a guy he didn’t have wardrobe issues to deal with so he went in ahead of us to walk around in case we ran out of time!!). The Palace itself was pretty impressive. I’m not saying I would live there...it was all a bit sparkly and bright for me but it was fabulous to look at. Everything had shiny tiles and sparkles all over it. And the roofs of the buildings were really ornate. My favourite part of it was probably the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Emerald Buddha is one of the national treasures of Thailand...and ironically enough is actually made of jade!! When it was found it was presumed to be emerald and so it got its name but years later was found to be jade but the name never changed. It is a tiny Buddha in comparison to all the other ones that are usually in the temples and it was sitting high on a very fancy, ornate, gold throne type thing way up at the top of the temple. We wandered around the Palace grounds for about an hour or so and then we were all photoed out and me and Rosie were definitely ready to lose our latest fashion statement! So we headed out and made our way to Wat Pho, where the famous Reclining Buddha resides. Triona had mentioned the Reclining Buddha to me in emails but I definitely didn’t expect to see what I saw. I knew it was unusual as Buddha is usually depicted sitting cross legged or on some occasions standing but never lying down. So when we got to Wat Pho we walked around all the temples within the grounds looking for this lying down Buddha. We might have found it a whole lot quicker had we realised that it was a MASSIVE statue rather than just a little one that could fit in any temple. We were approaching one large temple and I could see through the window what I said to the others was “a large horizontal piece of gold”. We walked a little closer and realised that yep we had found it and holy crap it was huge!! Pictures and dimensions would do nothing to describe the enormity of it; it is truly something you have to see to get an idea of exactly how huge it is!!  When we left the temple the ticket man was very kind and told us that the ticket would get us into a couple of other temples and that a tuk tuk would cost us the equivalent of 30cent, so in we hopped and off we went. He brought us to the first temple which supposedly was the happy Buddha with a big belly....and the temple was shut...so we got slightly suspicious at this stage and asked the driver where else was marked on the map. When he told us, a quick consultation with our guide books told us that all the temples that were marked were closed so we asked him to just take us home but that we would still pay him. At which point he started saying he was going to take us to some sort of Thai craft showroom but that we didn’t have to buy anything just look. We point blank refused and told us to just take us home, so we started off and after a few minutes he pulled over and tried to talk us into going to a different shop with clothes in it. Once again we said no and insisted that he take us home, he wasn’t particularly happy about it but he did eventually give in and took us home...though he dropped us a couple roads up from the hostel...I think he was trying to get some kind of revenge on us!! So it was a jam packed day 1 in Bangkok!
Day 2 was just as eventful. Rosie, Joe and I headed off on a walk to the river in the morning with the plan of walking down the river to the Temple of Dawn, however when we reached the river we discovered that there wasn’t a nice river walkway so we decided to ferry it up to the temple instead. The temple was lovely and had lots of little temples and what not within the ground so we had a good walk around and then Rosie and I did a boat ride around the canals. We both really enjoyed this as we got to see all the houses that hang out over the canal with all the little boats parked outside. Unfortunately as we weren’t there on the weekend we didn’t get to see the floating markets which was slightly disappointing...however we did see a crocodile sun bathing on a step just out of the canal which was kind of cool!! After that was more ferries back up the river to a fish and flower market and then we found our way to a Buddha temple that had hundreds of colourful prayer lanterns hanging from strings across the courtyard. I had expected most of the temples throughout South East Asia to remind me of the ones that I had seen in South Korea but had been pleasantly surprised at the totally different style in Bangkok. But this temple was the first time that I was reminded of Korea which was quite nice. Once we were finished there and had tracked down a tuk tuk that didn’t try taking us once again to the Thai crafts exhibition place we went to the Marble Temple. Again this temple was amazing to look at but we decided not to buy a ticket and to just walk around the grounds...which worked out pretty well as we walked past a back gate which was open so still got to see the inside of the temple and take a picture!! Once we were finished our exploration of the Marble Temple we headed back to the hostel after a very busy day of sightseeing. However the day was far from over as that night we were heading out to celebrate Pete’s 65th birthday! Pete’s birthday is not actually till the 22nd of August, and on the original itinerary (before the China cock-up) we would have been in Bangkok and we had planned to take him out to a show. So when the itinerary was moved around we decided to move his birthday too!! So that evening we all went to a lovely seafood restaurant right on the river under the Rama VIII Bridge (the Prince had it built for his father’s 80th birthday!!!). Then we were off to our show, I won’t go into too much detail except to say it was unexpected and very surprising!! We all came out to get back into our tuk tuks and head back towards home for a very strong drink!!!
Next morning was a lateish start for everyone after the frolics of the previous evening. Rosie, Joe and I made our way down to Chinatown to see the Golden Buddha. I know you’re probably thinking every Buddha statue is gold (except for the emerald one of course!!!) but this one is actually made of solid gold. After a walk through Chinatown (and a market where we saw everything from sweets to a bucket of stomachs!!!) we headed back to the hostel through a fabulous flower market. The colours and smells here were amazing and I couldn’t believe how many orchids there were in so many different species and shades. Unfortunately my camera had died at this stage so there are no pictures of the fabulous flowers which I was pretty disappointed about! Then it was home to pack and sleep before and early start for the Cambodian border.
We had 2 mini buses the next morning to drive us to the border where we were met by a lovely Thai girl who brought us the whole way through the border and looked after everything for us. When we got out on the Cambodian side of the border we had our own coach to bring us to the hotel in Siem Reap...called Smiley’s! And it was a very fitting name as the people there just did not stop smiling and could not do enough for us. After the early start most of us decided to stay in the hotel and eat rather than go exploring...which turned out to be a really good idea as that evening we had a huge storm! It started with just a little rain, which turned to a LOT of rain which turned into a deluge. Then the thunder and lightning started....and then the electricity went! So we ate dinner by torch light, which brought us back to our truck days a little bit!! The electricity was gone for a good few hours and only came back on at about 10 that night...at which point most of us were in bed as there was nothing else to do but sleep!! But the storm itself lasted most of the way through the night.
The following day was sightseeing day. Luckily the rain had stopped and we actually had a really nice day for it. The hotel organised mini buses for us to go to Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Phrom. I had been looking forward to seeing Angkor Wat as I had heard so much about it and it is the one that is really famous. But I have to be totally honest and say that I was slightly disappointed. It was amazing but slightly less spectacular than I imagined...though again this could have something to do with the fact that once again the curse of the scaffolding struck again!! It did get pretty impressive when we climbed up to the top section and got to see the work and that that went into the building and designing of it. But after an hour I was definitely ready to move on! Our next stop was by far my favourite. This one was Ta Phrom which is a temple that has been completely overgrown by a jungle. It’s ridiculously hard to comprehend what we saw, even though we saw it!! There were these massive big trees that were hundreds, if not thousands, of years old growing OUT of the temples. As in the tree was seeded in the roof of the temple and the roots had stretched down over the outside of the temple walls to reach the ground!! And as I’ve said these trees were hundreds of years old, which makes the temples even older and even standing there looking at it, saying to myself yes its real, the tree really is growing out of the temple so the temple must be ridiculously old I couldn’t get my head around! It was amazing to walk around and see it though and definitely the highlight of the day for me. Once we were finished there we went to Angkor Thom which was also amazing but at this stage I was getting hot and slightly watted out so I had a quick look around and then found nice tree with some of the other guys to sit under and had an ice cream! Overall it was a really good day and nice to get all the sight out of the way in one day, which meant after a very hectic Bangkok visit I was able to have a lazy day the next day! One funny thing about the sightseeing day was that for the most part it was all us UktoOzers who went on the trip, but one other guest in the hotel also signed up for it. He was a solo traveller from Hungary and he saw the list at reception and put his name down for it, not realising that we were a group. So he hopped into the mini bus with us the next morning. We all looked slightly shocked but I think he got more of a shock when within 5 minutes of being with us he realised that we weren’t just really sociable people getting to know each other, we were actually an established group! Of course he got curious at this stage and was asking us all about the trip which we gladly filled him in on all the fun details. But when we got to Angkor Wat, the first stop he quickly saw that while he was still full of enthusiasm for EVERYTHING he was seeing while he was on his 6 weeks trip, after being on the road for 4 months we had lost a bit of our enthusiasm and weren’t quite so enamoured with staying at the Wat for hours to explore every corner and nook and cranny of it! I think he was slightly miffed that he didn’t have extremely enthusiastic travellers to be with for the day but we were all used to it so not bothered by it too much!!!
The following day started out as a lazy day, spent sitting around the hotel, catching up on internet stuff and my journal. However, so as not to completely waste the day, me, Rosie, Joe, Bui, Kev and Pete headed into town for some food that evening. We found a nice little restaurant had some nice food and then decided to go for a drink. The drink however turned into a pitcher challenge as if we drank a pitcher of cocktail we got a free t-shirt. I went back to my student days of “Yay, free stuff” and so we got a pitcher and all left with a lilac (which in the pub lights looked grey!!!) t-shirts. We went on to another bar then and spent a lot of time there which involved another free t-shirt and a lot of dancing too!!! So the lazy day turned into a late night which defeated the purpose of relaxing, however I didn’t mind in the least bit as we had a really good night, and it was good to get out dancing!! We seem to get to do it once a month...which is a far cry from how often I went out dancing at home but it’s good to fit it in every now and then!!!
The following morning, despite the late night, was an early morning, as we had arranged to go on a boat trip to see the famous floating village. We had a bus ride there and then arrived at the dock and sorted out our boat. The floating village was very different to the canal ride in Bangkok. In Bangkok the houses jutted out over the canal but in Siem Reap the houses were literally on the water on floating platforms or in some cases large boats. It was amazing to see it but I couldn’t get over the difference between some of the houses. Some of them were really well kept with hanging baskets outside and that kind of thing; whereas others were really run down and we could see that they literally had one room as bedroom, living room and kitchen for the whole family. My favourite part was when I saw a couple of kids floating down the river in bug tubs and a little paddle. It was the cutest thing ever....all that was missing was an upside down pot on their heads and the picture would have been complete!!! As much as I enjoyed seeing the floating village I was very glad it was only an hour long after a late night the night before. When we got back to the hotel most of us hit KFC for some greasy food (though what I really needed was Mam’s Sunday Roast that day!!!)) And then it was back to the hotel to have an afternoon nap. Then dinner and packing rounded off the last few hours of Siem Reap.
The bus ride to Phnom Penh the following day was our first real experience of public transport. I had packed my day bag to include a cardigan in case there was air conditioning that made the co0ach a tad too cold. A tad too cold....hole crap it was freezing! We were all in cardigans and scarves and whatever anyone had to hand to keep warm; cuddling up to each other just to rob some body heat!! It was so cold that there was condensation dripping out of the air conditioning machines...which in turn dripped on us and didn’t help with the coldness. Half way through the journey we stopped for a break and we all piled off to go outside and warm up for a bit!!! And then we really started to miss the truck as once we were ready to go sit back on the truck after grabbing a drink and a snack we couldn’t because the driver had locked the door so we all just had to stand at the side of the road until he came back!!! We arrived in Phnom Penh to the bus station and I was amazed to see what unfolded. When the bus pulled in all the tuk tuk drivers moved in, presumably to harass us once we got off the bus. However dudes who worked at the bus station appeared out of nowhere with big steels barriers and positioned them around the bus so that we could all get off and get our bags without being hassled by anyone! It was brilliant but slightly unbelievable too that they have to go to those lengths to stop passengers getting hassled!!! That’s all I can really saw about my first Phnom Penh experience as all we did that night was go for dinner which was a bit of an ordeal as we seemed to have walked the wrong direction and only found a couple of seafood restaurants where we ended up being stared at and the waiter got slightly annoyed at us when we all didn’t know what we wanted to eat as soon as we sat down at the table! So day 1 in Phnom Penh was marked down as a bit of a dud but I presumed things could only get better (haha who’s singing the song in their heads now??!!)
Day 2 in Phnom Penh was interesting. I’m not sure I can mark it down as a winner as it was pretty hard hitting. Our first stop of the day was to go to Sol Seung or S-21, a prison that was used during the war. The prison has been converted into a museum documenting the atrocities that were bestowed among the people who were held there. I knew it was going to be hard to be there, as I had had a similar feeling when I went to Sachsenhausen in Berlin and this was just as hard as it all happened so recently. The first thing we saw was a notice of the “rules” that prisoners had to live by which included things like “you must immediately answer my questions without taking time to reflect”, “while getting lashes or electrification you must not cry at all”, “do nothing, sit still and wait for my orders, if there is no order keep quiet, if I ask you to do something, you must do it right away without protesting”, “you are strictly prohibited to contest me”. We saw this sign within 5 minutes of being there and it gave us all a sense for what we were in for during the tour. The guide also told us that the prisoners had to look straight ahead and weren’t allowed to look either left or right at any time. The first thing I noticed in the first room we were brought into was a photo on the wall. When the revolution was thwarted and the prison raided photographs of everyone who had died in the prison had been taken. This was for proof that they had actually died. This picture showed a man on the floor with horrific injuries to his stomach and bowels with shackles around his feet tied to a bed. There was also a chair in the background and a small steel box on the floor. When I looked around the room I realised that we were standing in the room that the picture was taken in and everything was exactly as it had been in the picture, including blood stains on the walls which were still there. There were similar pictures in the following rooms and it didn’t get any easier as we went along. When we went outside to go to the next building the guide stopped us at what looked like a climbing frame. He told us that before the war the prison had been and elementary and high school and that the frame we were looking at had been the playground. However the guards used the frame as a torture device to get the prisoners to confess to crimes that for the most part they hadn’t committed. The second building was where the cells were. The cells had been built in what had been classrooms. The cells were tiny. They were about the size of a portaloo and the prisoners would be shackled to the ground so that they could only sit. This meant that a lot of the prisoner’s loss the use of their legs and their muscles were never used. Another I thing I remember from the cells after the guide pointed it out was faded writing on the wall. The guide told us that it was there from the time of the school and was there for pupils but that it had been left there when it was turned into the prison; it said “nobody is perfect”. I wasn’t quite sure if it was there to let the prisoners know that’s that how they were thought of or if it made the soldiers who were on patrol there to feel a little better about themselves. On this note I’ll add that at the end of the tour we watched a short video which featured an ex-soldier who worked at the prison. I was shocked at how unremorseful he was about his actions. He talked about what he did to the prisoners and even admitted that he killed a man after hitting him over the head with a stick when his commander asked if he was a strong enough soldier or something along those lines. I understand that he felt he had to do those things or else suffer the consequences however in the video he smiled and laughed as he told some of the stories so it was like he wasn’t even sorry for what he did or didn’t see anything wrong with it whatsoever! We saw so many other things and heard about so much while we were there. It was very educational but also heart wrenchingly sad. After the museum we were brought to the Killing Fields. They are called this as, like in Germany where prisoners in concentration camps were put to hard labour, a similar thing happened to prisoners in Cambodia. For the most part it was prisoners from S-21 who were sent there and when they were told they were going to the fields they thought they were being sent to work. However at this field the only thing that happened to them was that they were killed, hence the name. The Killings Fields were just as horrific as the prison itself. Our guide warned us to be careful where we stepped as because it was the rainy season teeth and bones quite often found their way to the surface as not all the remains had been exhumed. He also told us that they wouldn’t be as the Cambodian government had called a halt to excavations at all the Killing Fields throughout the country as they already had enough evidence to prosecute the people involved. By this time the excavations had already found 17,000 remains in the Phnom Penh Killing Fields alone. The remains have all been housed in a memorial pagoda which we could go into to pay our respects. The first thing that I noticed when I walked in was the damage to all the skulls that were on display. Our guide had explained to us that because ammunition was so hard to come by the soldiers had come up with alternative ways to kill prisoners which including disembowelling, hitting them over the head with a variety of weapons, including the thick centre of a palm tree leaf. And this was only the tip of the iceberg; there were many other methods that I won’t go into keeping in mind the range of age groups that might be reading my blog! Needless to say, we all left the Killing Field in a very sombre mood thinking about a lot of stuff that we had learned. Later that evening myself, Rosie and Joe headed out for dinner. The only reason I mention this particular dinner is because in the restaurant that we went to Joe had bangers and mash with actual real baked beans!! As in Heinz baked beans...something we have all been craving for awhile now!! The food was lovely though and I got some yummy mashed potato (not as good as Dads naturally!!) and a yummy chicken cordon blue with proper cheddar cheese! It was home comfort at its best and we loved it!!! We then all went for a walk along the beach front before heading home to bed.
The following day was another tourist day but slightly less heavy than the day before! A small group of us headed out to the Royal Palace. It was really nice but very reminiscent of the one in Bangkok, the main difference being that the royal family still do actually live there...and the king was home too as the royal flag was flying in the front garden! We also say the Silver Pagoda which was really disappointing to be completely honest! I had read that it gets its name because of the silver, engraved tiles that covered the floor of the temple. So we walked around the palace grounds in and out of different buildings and it was only when I was on my way out of one that I noticed a silver tile on the floor. So I looked around and discovered that we were in fact in the Silver Pagoda but that the tiles had been covered in carpet! I immediately presumed this was to protect the tiles and then saw a cordoned off area near the door where there was no carpet. So I went up all excited to have a look at the tiles. Only to discover they were really tarnished and most of them, even though they were in what seemed to be the “display area”, were held down by duct tape!! And really old tatty duct tape at that! So I was highly disappointed with the Silver Pagoda and we all felt then it was time to head off for some lunch. That evening we went to a place called Friends for dinner. We chose this restaurant as it is run as a school for street children. The idea is to get kids off the street and to train them in catering and hospitality so that once they have finished their modules over a 3 year period they will be fully trained to work in the hospitality industry in Cambodia or any other country. The service in the restaurant was amazing; they were really efficient, very polite and spoke really good English too. And the food was unreal! It is a tapas restaurant so rather than one main meal we got to choose a number of little dishes to try. Little dishes they were not!! They were the biggest portioned tapas I had ever seen but we all tucked in and pretty much cleaned all our plates as the food was gorgeous! It was cooked so well and the flavours were yummy! We were all raving about it and found that they have a sister restaurant in Laos that we plan on visiting when we get there in a few weeks!! So our last meal in Phnom Penh and Cambodia in general is definitely one that I will remember for all the right reasons!!!
And so that brings to a close this part of the blog. I had a great time in Bangkok and am looking forward to going back to Thailand to see some more of it!! Cambodia was also great but gave me a lot to think about after the trip to S-21 and the Killing Fields. And so we are now off to Vietnam. Really looking forward to seeing there and we get to see lots of different sides to it from busy cities to beach resorts and everything in between!!