Tuesday, 12 July 2011

Nepal

So to say the Nepali border was the simplest one we have had so far doesn’t even begin to cover it! To get out of India we didn’t even have to get off the truck...we just gave Rachel our passport, she went to the exit desk (literally 5 dudes sitting at a desk out in the open at the side of the road in a little village) they stamped them and we were officially out of India....FINALLY!!! on to the Nepali side....fill out a form, go into an office (mosquito infested!) hand over passport, form, passport photo, get back on truck....15 minutes later (when the “big boss” was finished his dinner) we were all stamped through and officially in country number 14...Nepal. This all happened over the space of about hour and it was late and dark so we went to our bush camp site which was in the grounds of a hotel just passed the border. We all quickly pitched tents and then went to a nearby restaurant for some food. I think the staff were slightly flummoxed when a group of about 14 walked in half an hour from closing time and ordered food...but we were all too tired and hungry to care so we sat, ate and went back to the hotel...only to find that they had locked the gates!! So after a bit of rattling the gates Rhona came to our rescue and got a dude from the hotel to let us all in. What followed was a hot, sticky night in a tent! We were due to leave camp at 8.30 the next morning...those of us who camped were all pretty much up and ready by about7 because it was like staying in an oven if we didn’t get out of the tents! I put the time to some good use by stitching up all the holes in my tent from the dog in Amritsar...though even at 7.30 in the morning a little bit of sewing proved too much exertion in the heat!
When we did leave camp we got on the road for Chitwan National Park. The drive was lovely as everything was just so green and clean...which was a huge difference from what I had gotten used to in India. The first thing that I really noticed was that within a 20k drive from the border I had seen 8 or 9 different types of school uniforms. There is a big emphasis in Nepal on sending children to school, rather than them being at home. We got lots of waves from the kids and they all looked slightly bewildered at what they were seeing! We got to our hotel in Chitwan at 12.30 so then had the whole day to chill out and find out what there was to do while we were there...and there was a lot to do! We all piled into the restaurant first for lunch....and that is when that day’s monsoon hit! So we sat and watched it lashing down rain...and decided that that night we were just relax at the hotel and not do very much! The following day though, most of the group was up early for one of two treks. There was a full day jungle trek, or a half day trek. I decided on the half day trek and am very glad I did! We set off at about 7.30 and walked down to the village first...and reached a river. Our guide proceeded to tell us he was going to sort out our canoe and while he did that another guy came over to us and pointed out the crocodile on the bank of the other river.... cue oohs and aahs. Our guide came back then with our canoe....which in actual fact was an old fashioned dug out boat, one that once you are in it the water is an inch from the top of the boat and any slight movement rocks the boat from side to side....which isn’t actually a good thing when you keep in mind the aforementioned point that the water is an INCH from the top of the boat!! Everyone knows I’m not great in water....so putting me in a dodgy boat that rocks around with a slight movement and then keep in mind that a dude pointed out a CROCODILE, you can imagine that I wasn’t overly enamoured with the prospect of getting in the death trap! But in I went...sat like a stone and managed to keep myself calm (except for every time the boat rocked I’d squeal a little!). Then we went through a patch of water that had lots of tiny (and I mean miniscule, but there were a lot of them!!) rapids and my “calmness” rapidly (no pun intended) evaporated!! There were a couple of occasions we got a splash of water over the side but we all survived the deadly white-water rafting experience!! After floating downstream for about a half hour or so the boat dude pulled us over to the bank and out we hopped...well I saw hopped but what I mean is we all sat as still as possible as one by one we attempted to walk up the boat trying not to fall in ourselves or rock the boat too much for the others still sitting in it!! Once we were on terra firma again we got all excited about our jungle trek. Before we set off the guide gave us a couple of pointers. We were told that on the trek there was a possibility we would see some rhinos, elephants and maybe a tiger, along with deer and lots of different bird species....the guide’s advice was in regards to what we should do should be encounter a rhino. The first thing to do was to run and climb a tree as rhinos can’t climb trees (no shit!!). Failing a tree that was climbable, we should find a big one and hide behind it (really??!!). If that doesn’t work we were to search for a log lying on the ground vault over it and lie down behind it as the rhinos legs are too short and stubby to be able to jump over it (eh hello, what about my short stubby legs??!!), and if there was no tree to climb, hide behind or vault over....we were told to run in a zigzag fashion as the rhino can’t change direction easily...and with that our guide smiled and told us to follow him!!! So off we went on our great jungle adventure. Unfortunately (or fortunately perhaps!) we didn’t encounter any rhinos, elephants or tigers. We say plenty of kingfisher and hornbill birds. We saw an abundance of insects and different types of plants (including one which the guide called rhino potato tree...which was rather lethal, as the little round fruits that grew on it littered the ground and made for some difficult terrain to walk on...think walking on large marbles!). In terms of more exciting animals...Dee saw a deer...the rest of us were looking at the ground, we saw a monkey. And I’m afraid to report that the closest we got to a rhino or elephant was to see their footprints and shit! And we saw so much of their crap that by the end of it our guide didn’t have to tell us if it was rhino or elephant as we had become something of an expert on the subject ourselves! The end of our trek entailed another short canoe ride but then it was time to relax for the afternoon. Some of us went exploring Sauraha, the little village just outside the Park...and our exploration rewarded us in the fashion of a bar with Happy Hour and steak!! So that evening we all toddled down the village for drinks and a tasty meal that didn’t involve chicken after a chicken overload in India!
The next day was easily the best day out of our few days in Chitwan and is referred to as Elephant Day by most of the group! We all got up and headed off early in the morning to go to the Elephant Breeding Centre. We were picked up at the hotel by jeeps and brought to the breeding centre....unfortunately there was a river to cross before actually getting to the centre so guess who got another trip in a dodgy canoe...with even more people in it this time to try keep as still as possible! We all made it across the river without an early morning dip though and after a short walk we were at the Centre. We first went into a small museum which told us a small bit about what they do at the Centre. Obviously the breed elephants but they also train elephants there for jungle safaris and that kind of thing. Some interesting facts about elephants; they have 40,000 muscles in their trunk alone and when they are feeding they smack the bamboo or grass off their ankles to knock off any dust or bugs before they actually eat it. When we were finished reading about the centre we went out for the highlight....the 2 month old baby elephant. In 2008 the centre had a set of male twins born (only the second set of twins born in captivity in the world, the other set being in Thailand). But the new attraction is the 2 month old. We all spotted it straight away and when we were at the fence he came over to investigate us straight away. I was standing at the fence and he came and had a little sniff, grabbed my hand with him little trunk and then got mud all over my shoulders. It was so cute and he would just stand there and let us pet him. We all stood there for quite awhile before remembering that there was at least 20 other elephants to go and see, including the twins! So we walked around the yard, saw all the other elephants, including some that were being trained, which I didn’t really like to see. In the museum I saw pictures of how they start to train the elephants which is to tie their two front legs together and then to a pole. They are tied so close to the pole that they have to have their head in the air and their truck sticking up in the air. We didn’t see it quite as bad as this but we knew which ones were in training as they had their legs tied together and were standing right near training poles rather than just stumps in the ground that the rest of the elephants were tethered to (the baby elephant was free to roam within the enclosed area and cause a bit of havoc). In the end we all ended up back at the baby elephant for the last bit before we were told it was time to leave (none of us very happy having to saw bye to the little one!!). Then it was back on the boats, then the jeeps and back to the hotel for a half hour before going to have a bath with the elephants. When we were told we could bath the elephants we all had visions of getting in the water with them and scrubbing them behind the ears with a brush....not quite the case!! When we got to the river bank we had to climb up onto the elephants’ back (by standing on its forehead, didn’t like that!) and then sitting on its back. Then the elephant’s trainer would shout a command and before I knew it I had a trunk full of water landing on top of me. My elephant had perfect aim...some of the others the elephant would swing either left or right soaking people from the side. My dude would just throw it straight over its head so it got me smack in the face! It was hilarious...and then after awhile he would get border and just drop in the river sending me tumbling off!! So to say I went to bathe the elephants is a slight bit of false advertising...it was more a case of the elephant bathing me!!!
Later that day was elephant activity number three, our jungle safari! We got picked up in jeeps again and got brought to a different area of the park. 18 of us went on the safari which meant a convoy of 5 elephants, 4 people on 4 different elephants and Derek and Donald got spoiled by only having 2 of them on their one! It took a bit of getting used to at first, learning to deal with the swaying of the thing we were sitting in as the elephant plodded along. I think a few of the lads had some issues along the way (mostly on the uphill or downhill parts) as we all had a wooden beam between our legs keeping us from falling out! The safari was great fun though. Again the most exciting thing we saw was deer and monkeys and a few birds along the way, though Joe did spot a crocodile a few yards upstream from where our elephants had just piled into the water! We went through some quite jungly parts where our legs were getting whipped to pieces by tree branches...I got half my body almost wedged in a tree at one stage. We also went through some shallow water streams and at one stage jumped (well not quite jumped...on an elephant after all!) into the big river (the crocodile sighting) and ended up almost with our feet in the water. Overall it was so much fun; I loved the safari and hated having to get off the elephant at the end. Overall I loved the whole day! Had so much fun being so close to elephants, made me realise how much I really love them!!
Elephant day was rounded off by a traditional Nepalese dinner and Tharu Stick Dance. The staff at Mona Lisa prepared an amazing dinner for us consisting of Dal Bhat, which is curry, rice, lentils and vegetables. The food was absolutely gorgeous, my favourite dish being the curried cauliflower and potatoes. When dinner was finished we went outside to the garden where chairs had been set up for us. Locals from the village came and did a demonstration of Tharu dancing. The first couple of dances involved sticks which was unreal to watch. The guys playing the music would be beating away on drums quite quickly and the dancing guys would be bouncing around hitting sticks off another dudes sticks. It is totally impossible to describe what they did, my advice is to you tube Tharu stick dance and see what you can find cause it will be the only way to know exactly what the heck I am talking about! They did a few different stick dances then one guy came out with a long stick on fire and starting twirling it around like a mad yoke! I have never seen someone move so quick and this guy would put the flame throwers that are around Templebar back home to shame!! Then the last dance was the one where they asked us to get up and dance with them. Cue immense hilarity and lack of co-ordination! Surprisingly it was the guys who got up first with Bui leading the pack and Andy and Joe following not far behind. What was even funnier for the rest of us though, was that they all joined the circle at the same point so were copying each other rather than the dudes who actually knew what they were doing! Not that looking at the proper people helped any of the rest of us too much! Those guys have serious rhythm, something which the rest of us for the most part couldn’t quite keep up with, though there was two movements that the guys seemed to be able to get down pat; the change the light bulb move (you all know what I’m talking about!!) and a hip shimmy that proved to be quite funny when we tried to imitate as best we could! It was so much fun to be part of it and to have a go at the dancing, and the guys who knew what they were doing seemed to appreciate the effort we gave to get the dance moves!!
We left for Pokhara the next morning and had a lovely drive up through the Himalayas taking in all the scenery. After arriving in Pokhara early enough in the day we all went exploring in the town...and our first discovery was a cafe that served cheese and ham sandwiches!!! Then that evening a big group of us went to the Everest Steak House and everyone got their first bit of beef in a couple of months after Iran, Pakistan and India! The following day we all planned on having a lazy day and exploring the town...but the weather had slightly different ideas and we got up to a wet, rainy day! But we did venture out that evening to celebrate Rachel’s birthday, firstly going for cocktails, then dinner and then on to a bar for some more cocktails and a few games of pool. It was a good night all round...topped off by the fact that I went home slightly earlier than everyone else so when I got back to the hotel I got a great internet connection and got to talk to Mam, Dad and Triona! The next day was a late start for everyone after the shenanigans of the night before and then an extremely lazy day with the most exciting thing being going for pizza and ice-cream in the afternoon!
The following day we decided to make up for being extremely lazy for the first few days in Pokhara and we decided to walk up to the World Peace Pagoda. The Pagoda was built by Buddhist monks from Japan and sits up at the top of a mountain, overlooking Phewa Tal, the lake in Pokhara (second largest in Nepal). We had planned on getting a boat across the lake and walking up through the forest, except someone told us to watch out for leeches which turned us off (little did we know what was to come in a few days time!!). So we changed our plans and instead got a couple of local buses to the bottom of the hill and walked up it “the easy way”. Holy mother of God, I swear I nearly died on that hill!! It was about 35 degrees and the hill was steep and windy and we were in flip flops! I’m usually too stubborn to give up on things, especially when it comes to hill walking and that but for the first time ever I said to Rhona and Rosie that I was giving up. Fair play to them they said we would just go to the top of the ridge and then assess how far away the Pagoda was. As it turned out when we got to the top of the ridge it wasn’t as far away as it looked and best of all we got to walk along a flat ridge instead of the constant uphill! So I persevered thanks to the girls and we got to the top The Pagoda itself isn’t much to write home about. It’s big enough, brilliantly (blindingly!!) white and has 4 very big, VERY gold statues in it! But what people go up there for and what is worth going up for is the views out over Pokhara and Phewa Tal. I didn’t realise that Pokhara was as big as it was until I saw it from the top of the hill and the mountains behind the town were amazing. We stayed up there for awhile and took a few pictures and then made our way back downhill, which was slightly easier as we came down the steps rather than going the scenic route which we had accidentally gone up! Nothing much else from that day to report except to say we went for dinner in a Japanese restaurant that night and I succeeded in eating my whole meal (bowl of rice and all) with chopsticks!!
The next day we all got up early in terms of the previous few days and went to Mike’s Restaurant for breakfast. It was lovely to sit by the lake and have a nice breakfast. Some of the guys got breakfast burritos...which would have easily fed a small family for a day if needs be!! Afterwards we hired a giant pedalo and pedaloed our way across the lake to Varahi Mandir, credited as being Pokhara’s most famous Hindu Temple. My thinking is that it is the most famous one because it is on an island in the idle of the lake. When we got there the first thing I noticed was that the place could rival Templebar Square with the amount of pigeons that were knocking around! They were everywhere! Once I got over that, the temple itself was slightly unimpressive. It was fairly small and seemed to be covered in henna dye...which is probably down to the pigeons rubbing against everything and then landing on the temple. We didn’t stay there too long and all piled back on the pedalo. We still had a bit of time before we had to be back to we got ourselves out in the middle of the lake and then just floated and chatted for awhile before heading back.
The next day we met our trek guide Ram who had the task of getting 8 of us up and back down a mountain over the following 5 days! He gave us a rough idea of what to expect (failed to mention the fact that over the next 5 days we would walk up and down THOUSANDS of steps!!!). But what horrified us most about what he said was that on day 1 we would be walking for 6 hours....in complete contrast to the 2 and a half hours that the itinerary we had all looked at told us! We got slightly worried at that stage but he told us then that the rest of the days our longest walk would be 5 hours. We went out for dinner that night to get a good meal before we set off at 8.30 the next morning. We had a 1 and a half hour drive up the mountains before we got to our drop off point. We all jumped out of the van full of pep in our step, popped our bags on our backs and headed off on our big adventure. We walked through a few little villages first, across a bridge that went to nowhere (literally a big steel structure that ended at a brick wall!!) and then we were out in the Himalayas. I was walking along at my merry little pace and then we started to hit steps going up hill...my good God!! They killed me! We walked for a couple hours and then stopped half way up the steps at a little restaurant for lunch. Much to my surprise, it wasn’t a set meal or sandwich we were given for lunch, we were allowed choose anything we wanted off the menu so we were all happy! We were waiting for just over an hour for a food which was good in one way as it meant we got a little rest and got to rest our legs but as we were wet and damp from the rain and sweat (sexy!!) most of us ended up a bit chilly. Some of the lads had the great idea of talking off their t-shirts so they wouldn’t get a chill...which was a great idea until it came time to go and they had to put freezing cold, damp t-shirts back on them...fun for the rest of us to watch! Once we were ready and the lads were all fully dressed again we set off on the steps again...which was still another 3 hours walk of uphill. We eventually arrived at Ghandruk, our rest stop for the night. When we got to the little village there were sighs of relief all round...until Ram pointed out that where we were staying was a little further up the town...up meaning UP and so we had a last few killer flights of steps to get through before we could truly relax! When we did we got our rooms and went for a much looked forward to shower...only to find they were all freezing so it wasn’t so much a shower as a quick dash under freezing water and then an even quicker retreat! We then went down to the common area and got some tea to warm us up (yes I did just saw we ordered tea and yes I did partake in the drinking of it!! I had 3 cups of tea a day while on the trek...so after years of people telling me to try tea it turns out all you had to do was bring me on a walk up into the Himalayas and I will do it quite willingly!!!). We also ordered dinner when we got there...which turned out to be a good idea as it took nearly 2 hours to get it cooked (we quickly learned that food in the Himalayas takes a bit of time to cook...possibly because they don’t get many visitors so they like to keep people there as long as possible for a bit of company!!!). Once dinner was cooked and we were all finished we all headed off to bed...at about 8 o’clock!! The following day we had a 3 and a half hour walk and once again we were going up (I’m not sure why I was surprised by this...how else did I expect to reach the summit of a mountain!!). It was all steps again and big ones at that, my little legs struggled with a few of them but we all made it in the end. And we were all surprised when we got there as there was a guaranteed hot shower so we were all very happy and warm an hour or so later. The lodge that night was really nice, there was a big massive table for us all to sit around with blankets hanging off the edge of it so we could put the blanket over our knees (granny style) to warm ourselves up...but best of all the woman there put a big bucket of hot coals under the table so all our legs got nice and toasty! It was an early night again for all of us that night with us all heading off at about 7.30...turned out to be a bad idea for me as I was wide awake and it took me ages to get to sleep...not helped by the fact that even with my IPod in I could hear loads of bugs buzzing around the room!!
It was an early start again the next day and we started off downhill that day! It was a steep drop (down steps naturally!!) but then of course we had to make our way back up hill. I struggled a bit that day with my breathing. My chest felt really constricted so I was on a serious go slow that day (more so than the previous couple of days!!). We had another long wait for our lunch at the lunch stop and again we were all freezing cold! When we got going again it was 20 minutes uphill and then a downhill again to Ghorepani where we were spending the night. Our lodge that night was called Super View Lodge....and I’m sure it would have been a super view were we not constantly in clouds and mist for the whole time that we were there!! The lodge was lovely though, the nicest one we were in the whole time and was really cosy. The following day was our earliest start....up at 4.15am to leave the lodge at 4.45 to make it to the summit of Poon Hill for sunrise. It was an interesting way to start my birthday! Not sure I have ever been up that early on my birthday before....unless you can count coming in at that time after being out the night before!! I did ok on the steps for the first while, but about half way up I slowed down a little. I made it up to the top though and the views weren’t quite as spectacular as we had all been praying for. Luckily the rain that had been coming down all night did stop and the clouds on the tops of the mountains drifted along giving us the odd glimpse of other mountains...but it definitely wasn’t the breathtaking views I had hoped to see! I still appreciated what I did see though, even cloud covered the mountains were still lovely to look at and I loved watching the clouds just drift over them. It came to sunrise time and it wasn’t so much a sunrise as just a general lightening up of the sky. We stayed up there for about half an hour, took a few pictures to prove we did it and then headed back down for breakfast before setting off on a downhill track for the day. When we got back to the lodge I opened my birthday cards that I had been given before I left Dublin in April and have been carrying around since then (didn’t know I had that much will power!!!). I will admit I had a few tears, something I knew that would happen once I opened them. But I had my moment and then went down for breakfast where the guys gave me my birthday present (a UKtoOz t-shirt and string topJ). After breakfast we then headed off. That day we dropped from 3,200 metres to roughly 1,500 metres...pretty good going in one day. Except that it was steps the WHOLE way. I usually prefer the downhill to the uphill but I have to admit that day I kinda detested it! At first we were stopping along the way for our usually break for a few minutes...but as we kept going downhill stopping meant legs shaking uncontrollably and knees beginning to seize up...so in the end we just kept on walking no matter how tired or sore we were. My knees weren’t helped by the fact that I had taken a little tumble that morning and went tits over toes falling flat on my face and bruising my wrist and knee! When we got to the town we were stopping at that night we had a couple of draw bridges to cross which gave us some amazing views of some waterfalls. When we got to the lodge we all pretty much collapsed on a wall just outside it and waited to find out where our rooms were (up on the first floor of course!!!). We showered and hobbled back down the stairs to sit in the restaurant and wait for lunch. We could pretty much tell straight away that we were lower down as it was much warmer...and there was also lovely blue skies and fabulous views of the mountains (how typical is that!!!). Everyone had a few drinks that night to celebrate reaching the summit and we toasted my birthday too, then it was another early night in anticipation of being finished the following day!
Ram had told us the last days walk was “Nepali Normal”, a term he had taken to using to let us know that it wasn’t steeply uphill or downhill it was just a gentle up and down track...something we all appreciated! Though of course we first started off going down steps, something our legs did not appreciate after the previous day. It then changed to Nepali Normal and we picked up pace. We faced a couple of obstacles on what was supposed to be out “easy” day! Firstly we came across a little river across our path which we had to cross. We had come across a similar obstacle on our first day and everyone carefully took off their shoes and socks (I was wearing sandals so just waded straight in!) and stepped across. When we encountered the same problem on the last day everyone pretty much just walked straight in not caring how wet their shoes and socks got! Our second obstacle was to get across a landslide of lose rock and shale. When we first saw it we all had a moment of horror when we thought Ram was going to tell us we had to double back! Luckily though he expected us to be able to make it across the landslide without slipping down it and ending up in the river at the bottom of the valley! We all did make it across and it was quite fun doing it too. Joe came across last in the group and ended up being overtaken on the landslide by a 70 year old Nepalese dude wearing a pair of wellington boots!! We then trundled on and after a couple of hours Rosie spotted the bridge that went to nowhere.....signalling that we were very, very close to our starting point which meant we were very, very close to our little mini bus that was waiting to save us! We picked up speed and Joe even managed to run up the last uphill and race Ram to the top (Ram won!!). We then all piled into the van and let the driver dude and his clutch get us the rest of the way down the mountain!! When we got back to the hotel we were greeted by the staff who asked us how we were...to which they got a generally grunt and groan in reply! We all showered then ordered lunch and with that we had finished our trek! That night we brought Ram out for dinner and drinks to say thank you and to let him know that we appreciated everything he did for us...and to reward him for listening to us moan and groan for 5 days! I think it took him a couple of days into the trek to realise that for the most part we were joking and having a laugh when we were complaining about stuff and then he started to sit down with up cause he realised that we weren’t going to hold him personally responsible for the pain that we were in!! Dinner that night was really good and made even better by the fact that we were back in Pokhara and down off of the mountain with nowhere to walk to the following day!!
People keep asking me now if I enjoyed the hike. It’s a question that I can’t actually answer I’m afraid! I’m am very proud of the fact that I made it all the way to the top....and it made it a very special birthday too. I am quite pleased that for the most part I managed to avoid the leeches....only getting 3 throughout the whole trek. I came away lightly compared to the others. I think wearing sandals was a god send as I could see the little feckers on my socks (yes I did wear socks and sandals for 4 days of my life!!!) before they managed to burrow themselves through the socks. So when I did see them I could yank them off...and yes that does mean that I touched leeches...I touched a lot of them! Gone are my girlies days of tan and heels...I was a socks and sandals kinda girl for a week with absolutely no problem of touching a parasite with my bare hands and ripping it out of my skin while it sucked the blood out of me! Some of the other guys got pretty badly eaten by the leeches. Rhona even managed to end up with one in her head...only noticed when the fecker had dropped off after getting his fill and blood started flowing down her face! Everyone else would only know about their leeches by the massive blood stains left on the socks and legs after the leeches had dropped off. This brings me to the point that the leeches don’t actually hurt. For the most part we never felt them on us, every now and then someone would feel them but mostly they were there and gone before we noticed and only the marks left on feet and legs gave away that they were ever there! But I would take leeches over mosquitoes and day as they don’t hurt and don’t itch and don’t leave big massive red lumps where they bite!! Leech rant over, and back to what I started saying. I am glad that I did the trek, it was an amazing achievement but I wasn’t slightly disappointed as to the level of scenery we got due to the clouds and rain. I joked at one stage that I would be tempted to do it at some time in my life again...just to see the views I was supposed to get. Then I quickly talked myself out of it as my muscles seemed to sense what was going on in my head and started throbbing! But now that I am back a couple of days I think doing it again is a possibility at some stage in my life....I will just make sure I am fit enough and have trained for it so that the steps don’t kill me half way up!! But if I do do it, it will be far into the future so that the memory of the pain isn’t quite as fresh in my mind!!! It wasn’t quite what I imagined it was going to be and I think that is why I struggle to figure out how I feel about the trek. When I think Himalayas I think rocky mountain peaks with snow capped mountains. And I know I wasn’t going up high enough to actually trek on snow capped mountains but I still imagined that it was going to be rocky terrain. Instead we got step after step in a more jungly environment and as beautiful and breathtaking as that was I was still slightly disappointed that I didn’t get to see the sort of Himalayas that I imagined.
 Enjoyed the trek? Jury is still out! Glad I did the trek? Absolutely!
And here ends part one of my Nepalese adventure...many more stories to come as I still have two weeks in Nepal which includes a return trip to Chitwan and then a few days in Kathmandu.

Sunday, 3 July 2011

India - Part 2

So our next stop in India was Jaipur. We stopped at the Temple of the Sun God of Galpa just outside of Jaipur, which is also known as the Monkey Temple...due to the fact that it is surrounded by monkeys! The truck parked at the bottom of the hill that the Temple was on and off we all set off...in the blistering heat...up a steep hill...to see a temple...yay!!! In all honesty the temple was a temple but we were all transfixed by the family of monkeys that was just outside the temple. When we looked over the edge there was about 40 or 50 monkeys monkeying around (really sorry but had to do that!!!). There was loads of little baby monkeys too...as in baby baby ones and toddler ones! And we even saw one that looked like it was only a couple of hours old...we guessed this partly due to the fact that the mammy monkey looked pure knackered and couldn’t move at all except to cling to the wee baby! Some of the teenager monkeys were quite inquisitive and were coming right up to us which was pretty cool. Once we had our fill of monkeys we headed back to the truck and had a short journey then to Jaipur...where we found a gorgeous hotel awaiting us!! And in contrast to the noise and dust of Delhi we had a nice hotel in a peaceful suburb with lovely comfortable rooms. We took it easy that night and ate at the hotel. The restaurant was a veggie one but I found loads on the menu to eat so had a lovely meal that night!
Next day a group of 14 of us headed off on an organised day trip. In Delhi I felt that I hadn’t done very much tourist wise because I was struggling with the heat so I had found out about this tour and decided to do it so that I could see some of Jaipur. My god see some of it...I saw all of it... in a day!! I was shattered by the end of it!! Jaipur is known as the Pink City after it was painted pink in 1876 to welcome Prince Albert to the city. Oddly enough it is more of a terracotta colour...something which our tour guide commented on himself!! We stopped first at the Birla Temple which had amazing marble carvings all over it and was set in a beautiful garden. After that we moved onto Albert Hall which is the Central Museum. It was built in 1876, again in honour of the visit from Prince Albert, and was a beautiful building to look at, and again it was set in a fantastic garden. Hawa Mahal in the centre of the town was our next stop. The Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) is a 5 story semi-octagonal building that has 365 windows on it. It was built in 1799 by a Maharaja with the purpose of allowing his wives and other royal ladies to watch the parades through the city without them being on view to the public! It was the most intricately carved building I’ve possibly ever seen. Our next stop was Jantar Mantar which I found quite interesting. Jantar Mantar is one of 5 observatories built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II throughout India in the 18th century. It’s not an observatory in the sense that we know it; there was no massive telescope or anything like that. Instead it was all walls and structures that allowed people to study the movements of constellations and stars in the sky. And it still all works today, the sundial told us the accurate time of Jaipur down to a difference of about 30 seconds or so...fairly impressive I think!! People also use it a lot when arranging marriages as they believe a lot in star signs matching and that kind of thing. The families go to the observatory and get an astrologer to align the two peoples star signs and see if they are suitable and what is ahead for them in marriage in terms of children and their fortune. I will just say that even though India is still a country of arranged marriages there are nowadays a lot of “love marriages” where young people are finding their own partners rather than them being arranged from a young age.
After Jantar Mantar we headed into the City Palace which was in the heart of the Old City. The Palace had the usual house of Public and Private Audience as well as courtyards and loads of impressive gateways. Two marble elephants stand on either side of the entrance to the palace itself. There was also an armoury and weapons museum (which I gave a miss) and also a display of traditional art works where we could watch some of the artists at work as well as buy some of the art work if we wanted (something I didn’t do seeing as an being an overlander makes it impossible to buy a lot of stuff!!). I also saw an entrance in the Guinness World Records while I was there, two large silver containers that are credited as being the largest single pieces of silver in the world. There were absolutely massive and were used by the Maharaja to transport water from the Ganges when he was travelling and in battle! Jal Mahal was our next stop which was a palace set in the middle of a large lake. The palace was lovely and the view was amazing as the lake was so still it reflected the palace perfectly in the lake. Our guide told us that the palace was built as a summer lodge for hunting... but then the Maharaja decided he would also like to be able to fish also, so he got a lake dug out to surround the palace! Nice to be able to decide you want to have a lake around your house and for it to be just done like that!!
It was then time for our lunch stop which was up at Nahargarh Fort 600 feet above the city. We got some amazing views and the drive up reminded me a little of the drive the truck did on the way up to Nemrut Dagi in Turkey...as in it was narrow roads, extremely windy and a slow drive!! There was amazing views of the city and the Fort itself was lovely, although we didn’t have a lot of time to explore because it was a choice of explore or have lunch...so we chose lunch naturally!! Afterwards we went to another fort called the Jaigarh Fort. This Fort also stands overlooking the city. The main attraction at this fort aside from the views is Jai Ban, which is the world’s biggest cannon on wheels. The cannon has a 20 foot long barrel and can hold 100kg of gun powder. The cannon can fire up to 20 miles...it has only ever been fired once...which was a test shot, and once people heard of how accurate and the power of it, it seemed to deter people from attacking the Fort...so it worked without actually working!! After Jaigarh Fort we went to Amber Fort which was my highlight of the day. The palace itself took 2 centuries to build under the watchful eyes of 3 separate Maharajas. It is built in red sandstone and white marble. In the palace we saw the Sheesh Mahal which was the chamber of mirrors...where us girls became princesses as the story went that only princesses of the palace were permitted to look in the mirrors...so we all did of course!! The palace also had an amazing courtyard and was just pretty impressive overall! My favourite palace to date I think. At this stage we had been out for 9 hours so we were all extremely glad to head back to our hotel. We went for dinner that night at a rooftop restaurant and then we all collapsed into bed after such a busy day! The following day was an EXCEPTIONALLY lazy day!! I spent most of the day on the net catching up with people and making a few long overdue phone calls. Proof as to just how lazy we were that day lies in the fact that we decided we wanted Dominos pizza for lunch...so we got it...by ordering it on the internet and having it delivered to the hotel!!! The poor delivery dude got quite a shock when he walked into the hotel to deliver 6 pizzas and he got ambushed at the door by a group of hungry white people!
The following day we moved on from Jaipur to Agra and the Taj Mahal. The Taj is one thing that for some unknown reason I have been ridiculously excited to see the whole way through the trip. On the way to Agra we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri which was a preserved fortified city with all the usual palace/fort stuff. Then we headed to the hotel and started making plans to visit the Taj Mahal. The Taj was built by a Maharaja for his first wife after she died giving birth to their 14th child. So next morning a group of us got up BEFORE the crack of dawn and headed into the Taj for sunrise. We were the first people in the queue and even though it wasn’t supposed to open until 6 they opened the gates at about twenty past 5 when we arrived. So we got the iconic picture of the Taj Mahal but with no people in the foreground which was amazing. Seeing it for the first time took my breath away. I found it hard to believe that I was actually standing in front of it. It was so beautiful and majestic and just absolutely perfect. The sky was the brightest blue behind it and it just glowed in the morning light. We spent ages looking at it and taking pictures and then started walking up to it...which is when it dawned on me just how big it actually is. We walked around it and went into it and then found a spot on one side of it to watch the sun come up behind it. The sky turned a lovely golden colour and the Taj looked even more amazing in that light. I could have sat there all day looking at it but unfortunately we were being picked up to go to the Red Fort. So we headed out to meet our tuk tuk driver and off we went to the fort. The fort again was lovely and a really impressive one, bigger than most of the ones we have seen and again in perfect condition. But what made it truly breathtaking was the views we got of the Taj Mahal across the water. It looked much smaller all of a sudden but still as stunning. When all that was done we headed back to the hotel and chilled out for the day after our early start. In the evening we went to a rooftop restaurant overlooking the Taj for sunset. We left a bit too early though and missed the sky changing colour unfortunately but we made up for it the next day by going to a different restaurant and waiting til it was actually turned to dark sky and we got the spectacular views that we were looking for.
Our next stop in India was Varanasi and the river Ganges. We had a very early start to get on the road and make it in one day without having to bush camp along the way. Varanasi was different to the other places we had stayed in. Throughout India on our drive days we would drive through little rural villages but once we reached our destination it got a feel of being more city like. Varanasi was different in that when we reached it, I didn’t actually realise that we had because it just felt like one of the slightly larger rural villages! We were due to camp in Varanasi in the courtyard of a lovely hotel. When we first arrived the hotel said there was no room available but then they found a few. I decided to stick it out and sleep in my tent...I got it pitched and then found out there was a few more rooms available. Even pitching the tent had made me pump sweat (sexy I know!!!) so I decided a room was probably a good idea for that night! And best of all the bed had a DUVET!!! I have not slept with a duvet since my last sleep in my bed so this was an extremely exciting thing...once again evidence that it is the little things in life that makes us happy!!
Our second day in Varanasi was a lazy day by the pool and deciding on options for our break in Nepal but the following day was jam packed! I got up at 4am to go on a sunrise boat trip on the Ganges. It was extremely peaceful when we got on the river. There was very few people around, only a small handful of people washing in the river or doing laundry. The boat brought us along many of the Ghats (steps) all the way up to the main burning ghat. Everyone knows that the Ganges is where people go to burn their deceased relatives as if they die by the Ganges they are released from the circle of eternity and won’t be reincarnated (which is why there are such a large number of elderly people in Varanasi). The guide told us that the funeral period is very short; when a person dies they are burned within 24 hours of them dying, which I found quite odd. Women are also forbidden from going to the Ghats and so it is only the men in the family who accompany the body to the Ghats. Looking at the ghat was a slightly odd experience. At first I was just looking at these fires and even when the guide pointed out a family sitting on the steps with a shrouded body waiting to burn, it didn’t hit me. However it did hit me when I was looking at one of the fires and I noticed (look away squeamish people) a leg from the knee down sticking out of a fire untouched at that stage by the flames. It really hit me then exactly what was happening right in front of my eyes.
However after this experience we then rowed back down the river and the religious significance of the river was slightly tainted as we saw people literally having a crap in the river, buffalos bathing and also a dead body floating in the river. The guide explained to us that there are 6 categories of people that can’t be burned in the Ghats and so they get a weight tied to their foot and are dropped into the centre of the river instead. The 6 categories are children younger than 10, holy men, pregnant women, people who suffer from leprosy or elephantism (not sure that’s the actual name of the disease but you get the picture) and people who have been castrated. The guide said that often the bodies lose the weights and so the float up. Every few days men go down the river gather up any bodies that may have come lose, tie another weight to them and drop them down again! When the trip was over we headed back to the hotel for some breakfast and then a few of us headed into Varanasi to explore a little bit. We went first to a cafe for some lunch where I had the wonderful experience of a mouse crawling across my lap while I sat eating my pizza!! Yes I did jump up, probably quicker than I had moved in a long time!! Then we went to walk down by the Ghats. We ended up without realising down by the burning ghat once again. It was an even stranger experience to be standing so close and seeing it. I looked but at the same time stopped myself from taking too much in because I was afraid of what I was going to see. We then started to make our way to the main street. We had to walk through lots of little narrow alley ways and came across 3 funeral processions on the way to the Ghats, the first of which freaked me out slightly as they didn’t have the face covered like the rest of them. To say Varanasi is a maze doesn’t even begin to cover it! It took us forever to find our way back to the main street and when we did for the first time in India there was not one tuk tuk in sight!! We walked for ages looking for one and we all started to get extremely pissed off. The beeping was absolutely nonstop, once again people were staring, there was even one guy standing beside a body waiting to go down to the Ghats with a video camera that was filming the 4 white people rather than the funeral he was attending...although why he was filming a funeral in the first place was something else that was completely beyond me. At one stage the 4 of us where standing on a street corner when a guy on a motorbike stopped at the edge of our circle and started beeping for us to move so that he could drive through the four of us and get down the alley. Now we were in no way blocking the alley, all he had to do was move a few inches to the left and he could have gone around us. But no instead the ignorant bastard sat on his horn until we moved, to say he nearly got pushed off his bike would be a gross understatement and the 4 of us could easily have killed the dude with Rosie’s parasol if we had been given the chance!! We eventually found a tuk tuk anyway and got ourselves the hell out of there and back to the tranquillity of the hotel...only to have a very quick turnaround as we were doing the sunset trip on the Ganges too!! So we showered quickly and headed back into the city. Having been up from 4am and then having the awful experience of the afternoon the last thing I wanted to do was go back into the hell hole but off I went and I’m glad I went. The evening boat trip was a completely different experience as there was a lot more people around and there are ceremonies held all the way along the river in the evening giving offerings to the river with people praying for different things. After 45 minutes of watching 5 dudes waves flames, and incense and bells around in a choreographed routine in the ridiculous heat I was well ready to get home to bed!!
Varanasi definitely wasn’t my favourite place in India by a long shot (the goes to Agra) but I’m glad I can say I saw it. I didn’t have the guts to touch the river itself, purely because I couldn’t get over the dirt and seeing someone wash their clothes in the river with water buffalo shitting in it down stream and a dead body floating up stream is a pretty fantastic deterrent!  I did row the boat for a little bit on the morning trip so at least I can saw I rowed a boat on the Ganges! Next day marked our departure from India and into Nepal. India managed to redeem itself after my Varanasi experience before we crossed the border. It was a slightly dull day with a dark sky and the roads were lined by trees and green fields...to be really honest if I looked out the front window of the truck and blocked my mind to the fact that I was on a big orange truck I felt like I was driving the roads back home and I got a bit of a happy thinking about that.
So random thoughts on India; Rory, you’ll appreciate this....all the farmer dudes driving around in their tractors all wear WHITE!!! As in head (turbans) to toe white outfits...and they somehow miraculously manage to keep them white even driving around in a tractor in the dust and dirt!!
Another random observation, you know they way at home in Dublin city we have the pedestrian lights that countdown to tell us how long we have to wait for them to go green, well in India they have the counting down lights for the traffic...and not only do they count down how long we’ve to wait, they also tell you how long they are staying green for...which oddly enough always seemed to be for less time than they were red!!
I think my memories of India will mostly be dirty, loud streets, blatant picture taking which got very, VERY old by the end of the couple of weeks. Having every person I walk by trying to sell me something... which reminds me of a funny story from Amber Fort. When we were on our way out we walked by some market stalls, one of which was selling traditional shoes. An Indian woman was standing there with a pair of the shoes in her hand looking at them. Then I (a white person with “loads of money”) walked by and the man who owned the stall literally grabbed the shoe out of the woman’s hand and started trying to sell them to me!! Now I couldn’t have looked less interested (eyes to the ground, increased pace of walking) but still he followed me for a few steps before giving up and going back to the woman who actually wanted to buy them! I just found it amazing that he completely ignored an interested customer to try flog them to me just because I was a tourist! So yes I think when someone asks me about what I thought of India I think my initial reaction will be to say I didn’t like it but I think if I put a bit more thought into it and when I look at my pictures I will remember the amazing things like the Golden Temple in Amritsar and the Taj Mahal. So yes India was amazing to experience and I saw some amazing things and experienced things I never thought I would (thankfully this doesn’t include Delhi Belly which I managed to avoid for the 3 weeks woohoo!!) but I think 3 weeks in India is more than enough and if I did come back I would be going to new places rather than revisiting anywhere I’ve been, with the exception of the Taj of course!!
Slightly shorter second part of India but to be totally honest I’m just about done with India and ready to move on to writing about my Nepali adventure which I am loving already!! So Nepal is the next port of call and all my stories from there will follow soon!!